The Adventures of Tessa

A Room with a View

2011-12-19T14:26:00.000-08:00

The first time I set eyes on the patio of Unit 105 in 2009, the seed was planted. It was right after we arrived at Matanzas Inn at Fort Myers Beach to pay for our mooring ball. An older couple sat there enjoying sunset cocktails, and my heart decided that some day, some way, Mom would take their place on that same patio.

This year with a great deal of planning and family coordination, on the Tuesday before Thanksgiving, she arrived. Dreams do come true!

Brother David and wife Sandy kicked off what we referred to as the “Dot Delivery” by flying the friendly skies down to Fort Myers Beach with her. Our concerns about air travel were totally unfounded. She loved it!

It didn’t take long for all three of them to acclimate to the sunny climes. Sandy went straight from the airport to the pool at Harbor House Inn, leaving it only long enough to hydrate and renourish. Dot was content to sit by the pool and read. All she wanted to do was “soak it all in.” We did manage to divert Sandy’s attention once the sun went down to play several rousing card games.

We spent a joyful untraditional Thanksgiving day just soaking up rays while the turkey stuffed with Gary’s freshly shucked oyster dressing baked in the community room oven. Gary headed off to bartend at the Nauti Turtle while I grabbed a chaise lounge next to Mom and read a book feeling guilty...a little. Honestly. Upon his return we kicked the party off with an untraditional appetizer of fried gator tail. Followed by our first ever candlelight Thanksgiving feast enjoyed……outside! We dined on the veranda, toasted to the successful Dot delivery, and felt oh so thankful.

Friday Gary wheeled Dot down Estero Boulevard to our favorite Beach Pub. We buried our feet in the powdery warm sand and people watched on the beach all afternoon. After dreaming of being with Mom on the beach, I sighed with contentment and happily checked that one off the list!

Sunday arrived and it was time to introduce David, Sandy, and Dot to The DEK. It’s a friendly biker bar that offers $1.00 drinks and $10.00 pizza and pitcher combo, perfect for a cruiser’s budget. Dream of Dot partying at the DEK….check!

We drove David and Sandy to the airport with heavy hearts Monday night. After packing so much fun into the six days we were all together it was hard to say goodbye. Although Gary and I were anxious for Mom to begin chapter two of the visit at her very own room with a view at Matanzas Inn, Unit 105.

The first day I became very anxious and overwhelmed at the prospect of taking care of Mom for the next ten days. It would be fair to say that I was a basket case! I wanted everything to be perfect for her and was so afraid that something would go wrong. Would she be ok alone through the night?? What if she falls?? Is she coughing too much?? Why hasn’t she needed oxygen?? Will she be able to get in and out of the shower?? What if the wheelchair breaks??

It took Gary’s loving concern and several stern “get a hold of yourself and calm down you’re being overprotective and smothering her and she is doing great and she’s having a wonderful time and she can do much more for herself than you think and everything is going to be fine” lectures to talk me back into a reasonable frame of mind. We eased into a comfortable routine and just as Gary predicted, all began to feel right in our world.

Mom loves her sleep and needs a lot of encouragement to rise and shine. Each morning after sunrise we would check on her and gently suggest that she start waking up to enjoy the Florida sunshine. Ever so slowly we moved through the morning rituals. Shower, wardrobe choice, pills, breathing treatments, and her favorite Florida oranges with blueberries and yogurt for breakfast on her patio. Then we livened things up by doing hair and makeup like a couple of teenagers preparing for a hot date. We shared many quiet hours just sitting quietly on the patio reading. We spent some days wheeling around Times Square, window shopping, or just gazing at the sparkling Gulf of Mexico. Lunch one day was sushi and mango margaritas, another day her and Gary’s favorite bologna and onions. Every time she exclaimed “I’m just soaking this all in” I silently rejoiced in her happiness. Mom marveled at the beauty of the hibiscus in bloom, and we marveled at how she was blooming herself right before our eyes.

Gary suggested Dot get off her butt and cook for us. “I can do that!” she claimed. She chopped and diced and served up some mouthwatering swiss steak. We needed an hors doerves for the annual Christmas boat parade. “How about your shrimp mousse?” I suggested. “Sounds great!” she agreed. I laid out the ingredients and told her to get on it! It was as delicious as ever. We invited our friends Dick and Ann for lunch. How about a shrimp salad? “Sure” she replied. I laid out the ingredients, told her to go for it, and we never tasted a shrimp salad that good. Sunday came, “Mom, what’s for breakfast?”. “Pancakes” she replied, and made us the most perfect silver dollar cakes you could envision.

Our wonderful friends Trace and Diane surprised us by arriving from the east coast while Dot was here. They got such a love fest going that Gary and I were almost jealous. She giggled like a school girl at all of Trace’s antics, and Diane doted on her like a long lost daughter. We decorated for Christmas with lights and a poinsetta, and played Christmas music while cooking and drinking and dining. I had dreamed of her making new friends but she adopted Trace and Diane as family.

Each day, as she was a bit more active, she grew stronger and stronger. We would notice her carefully moving around the room without her walker, and soon agreed to walk to the pool without it, as long as she had an arm to hold on to. When we suggested water aerobics, she smiled that Dot smile and said “I can do that!” And that she did! These were dreams I had not dared to dream, yet they came true!

Mom, you are a lovely, wonderful, funny, amazing woman. You made us and yourself so proud during this visit. I told you that I wanted to be just like you when I reach 84. Will it be possible to get that good in just thirty more years?

Your memory is not what it used to be, and neither is mine. But I know in my heart that neither one of us will ever forget our special times together, as you made all my dreams come true.

Whenever you are ready to make some more memories, just say the word. I know the perfect room with the perfect view.

Drama King & Queen

2011-11-12T11:00:00.001-08:00

"MORE DRAMA! I WANT MORE DRAMA!" my director producer demanded as we departed Steinhatchie last Tuesday. The tempermental Gulf of Mexico finally decided to cut us a break and welcomed us back with sparkling, moderately choppy seas. As the day progressed calmly without any unexpected issues, I commented to Gary that I wasn't going to have any drama to report for Nick James. I spoke too soon.

Now we have so much more drama to report that I am afraid to jinx us any more by writing about it until we are finally at our dock at Fort Myers Beach. We have only 90 miles to go and SHOULD be there tomorrow.

But a lot can happen in 90 miles.

"Weather Window" half-opened or half-closed?

2011-11-03T16:13:00.000-07:00

Tessa, Nomad, and Vela Narcosis waited patiently in Carrabelle for a weather window to cross the Gulf to Tarpon Springs, while the crews did boat chores during the day and partyed with the locals at happy hour. Yesterday, day six of waiting, the crews began to get restless and impatient. Captain Bill from Nomad needed to find a port with more action. Gary and I were anxious to get to Tarpon Springs where our rendezvous with Bryan and Danielle would take place. Dennis and Wanda just go with the flow, which appeared to be flowing toward the Gulf.

All three Captains checked their favorite weather sources and came up with a consensus. They saw a weather window opening yesterday afternoon as soon as the winds subsided, as they were predicted to do. We could depart in 10-15 knots and 2-3 foot seas, which were SUPPOSED to subside to 5-10 knots, 1-2 foot seas late last night, and today was supposed to be totally calm all the way to Tarpon Springs. Let's go!

So using the "weather window" analogy, picture the five of us boosting each other up to the sill, squeezing through a half open window, and jumping through giddily just like a bunch of teenagers sneaking out for a night of underage drinking. In our excitement, not a one of us noticed the window SLAMMING and LOCKING behind us as we departed Carrabelle.

The first few hours were comfortable, and the sunset introduced beautiful stars and calm rolling seas. For a few hours. Then all hell broke loose. Suddenly, the wind began howling and the waves were crashing toward us in sets of three 6-8 footers. This WASN'T SUPPOSED TO HAPPEN! Gary checked the updated XM weather and we reported to the other two boats that it was still supposed to subside to 5 knots late last night. Everyone keep the faith and stay calm!

Bill (our Alpha Male Water Cowboy) did his best, single handing without an auto pilot, until his refrigerator broke loose and smashed his dining table to pieces, scattering table and refrig contents throughout his salon. We heard the frustration in his voice as he announced that "I'm gettin my a** kicked out here guys!"

We tried to make jokes and stay positive, expecting any moment for things to calm down, but it never happened. For hours and hours we charged through the mean nasty seas and finally decided to abort the plan to Tarpon Springs and head toward the eastern shore and the Steinhatchie River for protection and relief.

Gary and I were sure that we were the most comfortable with our autopilot performing beautifully and our new enclosure keeping us warm and dry. But we worried so much about our buddy boats, who have become such close friends and almost family during our time together, that we certainly could not relax for a moment. Bill kept his sense of humor intact, even though his boat contents were not, all the way to the river entrance this morning. Dennis announced that he felt like he fell off and was dragged by a horse. Wanda remained steady and silent...at least we never heard her announce on the radio that the weather forecasters were a**hole d***heads like I did. I read an entire book and avoided looking at the roiling seas rushing past us, sometimes even covering my head with a blanket to stay calm. Gary, as always, remained steady at the helm, reassuring everyone throughout the night that it was going to get better.

And it eventually did, after dawn as we approached the Steinhatchie River entrance, where we are safe and sound at a nice dock waiting for the next window to open.

The next time it better be ALL THE WAY OPEN, and STAY THAT WAY after we crawl through! Unfortunately, there are no guarantees like that when making Gulf of Mexico crossings. Last night Dennis thought a nice RV might be in their future. Wonder how Tessa would look on wheels???????

"Nerve"ana

2011-10-26T12:42:00.000-07:00

Each day on the Tenn-Tom Waterway has been so peaceful and uneventful that there has not been much blog material. We have spent wonderful days and shared beautiful anchorages with new friends that we have been buddy-boating with since Demopolis. And then there comes a day like last Saturday.

We departed Dog River Marina to cross Mobile Bay to the Panhandle Intracoastal in bright sunshine and a forecast of "Winds less than 10 knots. Bay waters smooth". Not even "Moderate Chop" like it was on our way down the bay to Dog River. Smooth was even better! We are very cautious as the masts must stay on deck until Carrabelle due to low bridges.

The channel from the marina to the main channel runs west to east and we had a north wind on our beam, which caused Tessa to roll in the waves. But as soon as we entered the main channel, the wind was on our stern and the ride seemed comfortable. About an hour into the four hour trip across the bay, I asked Gary "Are we going as fast as we can? I don't like the wind picking up." He gave her more throttle and we continued on. Except before entering protected land, we had to turn north east back into a stiff 15 knot wind and rollers that were now two to three feet.

Tessa began heaving and rolling as Gary struggled at the helm to maintain the best course with the least force of the waves. I couldn't stand to be in the cockpit watching the masts and stands....waiting for something to break! Gary kept assuring me that everything was holding securely and everything was fine, but I freaked out when he said we had FOURTEEN MILES to go.

My Captain expertly steered us to the safety of the protected Intracoastal while I hid down below and clutched good luck charms left on board by Don Dunn and Jim Jordan. We made it unscathed.

We joined Nomad and Vela Narcosis at Homeport Marina, home of LuLu's (Jimmy Buffett's sister’s restaurant). Bill from Nomad was standing at the end of the dock waving us in to our assigned slip when Gary calmly announced that we had lost our transmission! No worries, he simply shut down the engine and guided Tessa along the marina wall next to a 125 foot luxury yacht, and instructed me to get a line around a cleat FAST! Unscathed again! The dock master exclaimed that we must have a lot of good karma around Tessa because he had seen that happen to another boat that crashed into their wall and did a lot of damage. Good karma and a great Captain!!

Now, if Nirvana had lost their transmission, they probably would have totaled their boat and any boat within striking distance. Talk about BAD karma!

We first crossed paths with Nirvana way back on the Illinois River and a lock. Tessa and Muddy Waters had already waited patiently for two hours, struggling to maintain steerage and avoid going aground in the constricted waiting area, while a “red flag” barge locked through. Red flag indicates the barge is transporting hazardous chemicals and restricts any pleasure craft from locking at the same time. A boat throwing a big wake approaches rapidly, while we watch and wonder what the heck their hurry was. The lockmaster announced that it would probably be another hour wait. Nirvana rushed to the lock gate announcing to the lockmaster that “we have to get to Starve Rock Yacht Club and were told we could lock through with this barge!” What??? Once they were told they would absolutely not be locking through, Nirvana proceeds to crowd into the area already occupied by our two boats and another big yacht, and demands that the yacht move out of their way because they were aground! In less than ten minutes they managed to violate just about every proper river etiquette known. This is when I announced to Gary “That boat has BAD karma!” Once through that lock, after being waked by their rush to beat everyone else out of the lock, we hoped to never cross paths again.

No such luck. Running at power boat speeds, they stopped at different places, but twice more caught up with us and charged by creating a wake. Sooner or later, we thought, they have to get far enough ahead of us so that we never see them again.

No such luck. Several locks and days later, again we are waiting, about 45 minutes, for a Coast Guard work barge to catch up and lock through with us and our new Swedish friends aboard Horizon. The barge informs the lockmaster that a pleasure boat is a mile behind them. We all groan in frustration, as the lockmasters always want to lock boats within striking distance together. Horizon now realizes that due to the delay, they would not be able to make it to Demopolis before dark and will have to find a safe place to anchor with not many options. Gary thought we could still make Demopolis if we pushed it. No one wants to run the rivers in the dark!

So we wait and wait and the pleasure boat finally makes radio contact with the lock and identifies themselves. NIRVANA! IT’S FREAKING NIRVANA!

The lockmaster tells them that once the barge is secure, the two sailboats can enter the lock, followed by Nirvana. Except that is not good enough for Nirvana. He radios back and suggests that wouldn’t it be better if THEY go first, since they will be passing the sailboats anyway??? Once the lockmaster ok’d it, we watch, stunned, as Nirvana guns it and wakes the holy heck out of us to rush into the lock ahead of us.

The Demopolis Yacht Basin dock master advised us to pull up to the fuel dock for the night, as there are not many slips deep enough for us. As we approached at dusk, I told Gary to fully expect Nirvana to be blocking the fuel dock. Thankfully, they were there, but not at the fuel dock. We decided we did not want to be anywhere near that Captain and crew!

Gary and I were in the ship store settling up with Wayne the dock master when a lady resembling a street person bag lady type barges in and rudely interrupts us demanding the courtesy car keys. We wondered who could be so rude, and saw the answer written on the courtesy car sign up sheet. NIRVANA! Please get us away from these people!!

We joined several other cruisers at Moe’s Restaurant for drinks, food, and camaraderie. This is where we met Bill from Nomad and Dennis and Wanda from Vela Narcosis, who became fast friends and buddy boaters ever since. Small world, Bill’s friend Jerry was Captaining Nirvana since they fired the last Captain at Green Turtle Bay. In defense of Jerry, Bill explained that the owners were fruitcakes and driving Jerry absolutely crazy. Join the club, Jerry. And they weren’t finished driving people crazy. Wayne couldn’t wait for us to return to Tessa so he could tell us the ignorant things bag lady had managed..including keeping the courtesy car for an extra hour while others were waiting, then calling Wayne from her boat to tell him to come pick up the keys. Several blatant violations of proper marina etiquette.

The Demopolis lockmaster insists that all boaters coordinate a dawn departure to lock through together, so the next morning we followed Nomad and Vela Narcosis out at first light. No lights on Nirvana, so we assumed they were staying for another day. Good riddance!!!

We breathed a sigh of relief as we watched the lock gates close and the water began dropping us down. No more Nirvana.

All of a sudden, I see the bollard…and the water…going up instead of down. Something was wrong! Nomad was right in front of us and he screamed back “We’re going back up for f#*!ing Nirvana!” We were speechless. Gary gave his slinkiest stink eye ever. We have gone through over 300 locks and never ever experienced this. We don’t know what those clowns said to pull it off, but it worked.

We had a great time anchoring and partying with our new friends Bill, Dennis, and Wanda for the next three nights. At Mobile Bay, they headed into the Intracoastal toward Lulu’s while we stopped at Dog River Marina so Gary could get a West Marine fix. And you probably already guessed it. Nirvana was there. Ricky, the Dock master, said many other cruisers had their own Nirvana experiences to share. It wasn’t just us!

That same afternoon, I snapped a quick picture of their departing stern, hoping it was our final glimpse of Nirvana. Somehow they managed to leave enough bad karma in their wake to cause our horrible crossing conditions on Saturday. There is no doubt that they are to blame, but Tessa’s good karma overcame their bad and we are now safe and sound and heading for our favorite spot, Apalachicola, to slurp some oysters tonight.

We didn’t see Nirvana in Destin or Panama City last night. They have to be days ahead of us by now.

Don’t they????

48 hours of foggyness in Clifton TN...

2011-10-12T13:27:00.000-07:00

We spent 48 hours in Clifton Tennessee with Bill Magers. It was way too much fun. The End.

October 9th, 2011

2011-10-12T13:23:00.000-07:00

We are crossing Kentucky Lake and the weather has been PERFECTION! Sunshine and warm weather since we left Chicago on Sept. 30th.

That's what I'm talkin about!!

Yesterday we arrived at Moors Marina on KY lake in very skinny water and right smack dab in the middle of the conclusion of a bass fishing tournament. So here's TESSA moving along at a snail's pace, anticipating a possible encounter with an underwater boulder at any moment, with all these impatient bass boats buzzing by like a swarm of mosquitos! We couldn't kick back a cold one fast enough once we tied up to the dock.

It was a well earned cocktail since we had also just gone through the Kentucky Lake Lock, which is a 55 foot lift of a great amount of surge pressing TESSA tight up against the lock wall. I don't like that lock a lot.

Tonight is Pebble Isle Marina. Then tomorrow and Tuesday nights we will spend in Clifton Marina where our good moonshine drinkin buddy Bill Magers lives. We love that guy!

I'm sure there will be some more good stories to tell after the next two days!

True Confessions

2011-10-05T11:34:00.000-07:00

Come close and listen up. I have a confession to make. Not everything about this cruising business is perfect. Matter of fact, some of it REALLY SUCKS!

First and foremost are the weather forecasters. We religiously check three different sources before attempting a challenging float plan. It is not uncommon for the conditions to be totally opposite of what they predict. We suspect that most of the meteorologists are listening to Al Gore whine about global warming instead of just STICKING THEIR HEADS OUTSIDE TO SEE WHAT IS REALLY HAPPENING!

Great Lake crossings and ocean voyages are rarely enjoyable. It can be calm and clear one minute and the next minute we are getting out butts kicked. Invariably when the butt kicking starts, it goes on for miles and miles and hours and hours. As fortunate as I feel not having to wear my salesperson hat any more, on these days I would almost prefer giving a Ready Bender seminar to a classroom full of surly UAW tool and die makers!

Mast Stepping and Unstepping is quite a challenging chore. Last year and this year, our good buddy Bill Kane has been at Crowley’s Boat Yard in Chicago to help out. This year it poured down rain for the entire two days. I swear I would have been in the fetal position whimpering in our bunk if it hadn’t been for Bill. I wasn’t about to let a 76 year old man outlast me. We could barely keep up with him, and kept telling him to sit down and take a break. “What for?” he wanted to know. So we can take a break too, that’s what for! Brother Bill is an amazing man and a wonderful friend. How did we ever get along without him?

Traveling down the river system is a great experience but one must have lots of patience. Delays at locks can go on for hours, and become dangerous if you end up so far behind that there is no safe place to anchor or dock before dark.

Each locking experience is different, and the Lockport Lock above Joliet proved to be a new one. We were directed to tie off of a barge instead of the lock wall, which was nothing scary. The guys on the barge were very helpful in grabbing our lines. (Except for the last boat in the lock, who threw a line that was not connected to their boat and ended up sideways in the lock. Oops!) Just as we were all secure, the wind began gusting to about 30 knots and we were literally sand blasted. As luck would have it, the barge was hauling sand! It covered the boat, and blew into our eyes, between our teeth, into our hair. Gary thought it was an adventure. I thought it was a nasty mess. Glass half full, glass half empty!

And then there are the days like we have experienced since Joliet that make all the pain and suffering fade away. My favorite customer in the world, Jim Herrick, and his lovely wife Jan met us at the Joliet Bicentennial Park wall. We had a great time catching up and dining at a local pub.

As we crossed the sparkling waters of Peoria Lake in warm bright sunshine, I told Gary I was the luckiest woman in the world. No doubt he was silently wishing I would have remembered that on Lake Michigan while I repeatedly moaned I HATE THIS and questioned why in the h#*! we were doing it again.

The weather has been absolutely gorgeous as we cruise down the Illinois River. We were disappointed to miss our usual stop at the Ottawa City Dock due to low water, but were rewarded with a stunning anchorage just south of Ottawa.

Peoria was a wonderful stop as usual. We stayed an extra day to get a coat of varnish on the cowling and catch up on boat chores. That afternoon Gary insisted we walk the mile and a half across the bridge to Wal-Mart…with a couple of stops at local watering holes. All cruisers develop a new appreciation for Wal-Mart, as provisioning stops are few and far between. A good port of call is determined by a Wal-Mart, a liquor store, a local pub, and restrooms. Sometimes not in that order.

Last night we tied up to an AEP barge in Beardstown. We followed our normal routine….tie up securely and find a bar. Mile 88 looked about as local as you could get and it did not disappoint. We were greeted by Kathy, a commercial fisherwoman who has been featured on National Geographic. Her and her husband net tons of Asian Carp a day. The dreaded fish threatening to invade our Great Lakes is known as a delicacy to the Japanese.

In the same nets they catch Flat Head Catfish. “You just missed it” Linda said. “I just cooked some up and brought it here to the bar.” Darn, we said, we love fish. “I’ll just run home and get some for you” she insisted. I thought she meant the whole fish, so I said “Oh no, we’re good, don’t go to all that trouble” but she was already out the door and in her car. She returned with a foil covered plate of freshly fried Flat Head Catfish Belly, and by the sound of it, nothing I wanted to try. If Gary hadn’t shoved a piece into my mouth I would have missed out on some of the best fried fish we ever tasted. Delicious!!

After a few more MGD $1.00 drafts, the bar got a little lively. We heard the rumble of a motorcycle, which is not unusual in these little riverside towns. What was unusual was when the rider drove the Harley right through the back door and parked it in the corner. Apparently he was over served and the owner encouraged him to just bring it inside and park it so as to not be tempted to ride home. You can’t make this stuff up!

Since Joliet, we have been buddy boating with a great family on board “Muddy Waters” a 48 foot Kadey Krogen trawler. They have an interesting blogspot at www.samwayadventure.com. Tonight we will dock together at Grafton Harbor Marina at the mouth of the Mississippi, then we will continue on while they visit St. Louis. It will be sad to separate, as we have really enjoyed our journey together.

The relationships developed along the way are absolutely the best thing about cruising. Maybe we should have Nick James make a video montage of every new friend we have made along the way that I could pop in a portable dvd player. The next time we are in pouring rain, high winds, and big waves and I am tempted to say “I HATE THIS!” the video will remind me of wonderful friends and how truly fortunate we are to be living this dream.

Hell on Wheels!

2011-09-24T14:24:00.000-07:00

Tessa seems awfully quiet and empty without the James' presence. Especially after the Mackinaw City antics and then the funfilled Bon Voyage party last night with Tom and Marlene in Whitehall Michigan. This morning they loaded up the James' and headed for Port Clinton, while we headed for our next port of call, Saugatuck.

Last Wednesday morning we arrived in Mackinaw City after an overnighter from Harbor Beach. Lynne limped back from the showers. Her little injured piggy now referred to as "roast beef" was throbbing and it was going to be very uncomfortable to walk around town all day. Nick James was not about to have his princess in pain, so off he went in search of a wheelchair. Little did we know how that loving gesture was going to impact our day!

The streets, bars, and fudge shops of Mackinaw City became unsafe for normal pedestrian traffic. Although we did not witness it, Lynne claimed that he nearly threw her from the chair several times. We did however witness him racing her up and down the dock with a lapfull of laundry. It was like seeing a car wreck. You just couldn't help but watch even though you were afraid of what you might see. We breathed a sigh of releif when he turned it back in to the marina that night. Just go about your business folks, nuthin to see here. Thankfully!!

Another overnighter to our final destination with the James' on board to White Lake yesterday. Now it is just the two of us for the rest of the journey to Carrabelle Florida, where Bryan Diveto and Danielle will join us for the Gulf crossing to Fort Myers Beach.

It sure is quiet on board.

Recipe

2011-09-20T17:37:00.000-07:00

Tuesday September 20th

When weathered in waiting out 25 knot winds and 8 foot waves, try this recipe to avoid becoming frustrated and depressed. Combine great food with lots of red wine. Add a large serving of Lynne James and a small serving of Nick James. Mix in music. Heat up with SONG and DANCE! It worked for us!

This is how we passed the time Sunday and Monday while tied to an unforgiving cement breakwall with large chunks of iron protruding from it, just itching to scar Tessa in a surge. The wall was definitely not part of the overnight accommodations I had planned. Harbor Beach Marina surprised me by having only five feet of water, just a smidge too shallow for Tessa. I guess I’m out of practice, as my normal m o is to always call ahead and check depths. The dockmaster suggested we tie up just inside the break wall near their lighthouse. We had to find somewhere to wait out the incoming storm fast, with no other harbors within striking distance, so it was our only option.

Our first encounter with bad, unpredicted weather on Saturday reminded us all how unreliable the forecasts are. All the reports were favorable for our Friday afternoon departure. Less than 10 knot winds and calm water was in our future all the way to Port Huron. We entered Lake St. Clair before dawn on Saturday and were immediately slammed with a stiff 20 knot wind right on our nose for the next six hours. Not fun!

Later on Saturday it cleared up and we enjoyed a lovely trip up the St Clair River into Port Huron for an overnight stay. We quickly found the local watering hole and Nick began harassing our server, who gave it right back at him, which made for lots of laughs. We walk into a bar as strangers but always leave friends behind.
We made a meal of escargot and crusty bread, then lights out early for an early departure Sunday morning.

Sunday evening after an hour of securing lines to the Harbor Beach break wall and some pipes on top of the wall, Lynne split the bottom of her foot open on some deck hardware. After we got her bandaged up, we felt secure enough to throw together the recipe for fun and had a great time. The wind continued to build throughout the night, which made for a lot of “what was that???” sounds to which we would jump up and check out. Morning brought a heavy downpour that lasted all through the day. We hoped the winds would subside enough to move on, but NOAA warned of 8 foot waves all afternoon. The crew decided on a predawn departure this morning, so we broke out the adult beverages and had a wonderful Italian Sausage Pasta dish, compliments of Mike and Debbie’s care package sent along for the trip.

Today is absolutely gorgeous out on Lake Huron and we are truly appreciative of the bright blue skies and gentle rolling waves. Our plan is to continue overnight and arrive in Mackinaw City or St. Ignace tomorrow morning. After being confined here on board since Sunday morning, we need to walk on terra firma, diesel up, pump out, and check the weather window for the next leg of the trip. We hope to get the James’ to Chicago by Sunday at the latest. Tom and Marlene Kelleher have kindly offered to transport them back to Port Clinton.

Chicago by Sunday is the best case scenario. Lake Michigan and Mother Nature will decide how that all plays out! In the meantime, the four of us are enjoying that Milson/James combination of ingredients that create a recipe for friendship, fun, laughter, and lots of memories!

Thinking of you Don!

2011-08-10T07:42:00.000-07:00

"Since everyone is thinking and worrying about Don, we thought you might enjoy reading a couple of stories about our travels together. Don has a huge heart filled with love, kindness, and tremendous optimism. With all of our love and optimism added to his, we will get through this together! It'll work out!"

http://frugalcaptain.blogspot.com/2009/01/put-it-in-kitchen.html

http://frugalcaptain.blogspot.com/2009/10/itll-work-out.html

Same Old, Same Old

2011-07-19T05:52:00.000-07:00

We have survived a horrifying, life threatening experience and I am only now able to write about it. I can

certainly check “PLEASE DON’T LET GARY BE INJURED ON BOARD AND NEARLY DIE IN

FRONT OF ME” off of my worst- fear- ever bucket list. Been there, done that.

Everything had been going smoothly after being released from the clutches of the flooded New York Canal

System on June 5th. Less than 45 minutes after I sent the pleading email to the Director of the Canal System

the Friday before that, Andy the lockmaster appeared at Tessa. “This is not up on the notice to mariners

website, but I just got a phone call and was told to tell the boaters they would be able to leave at 7:00 a.m

Sunday morning” he told Gary. As word quickly spread down the lock wall to the other thirteen boats, we

could hear cheers of joy. Gary looked at me and said “This could NOT be a coincidence. You kicked some

a#* babe!”

Minutes later, my cell phone rang. The Deputy Director identified himself and began with a flowery

apology for our terrible inconvenience, assuring us that everything in their power was being done to get us

moving as soon as possible. And by the way, they were on their way to meet with us that afternoon.

Sure enough, the dignitaries arrived later that day to shake hands and apologize to all twenty six of us! Gary

had phoned and invited our hero Joe, the Mayor of Baldwinsville, to join in the festivities. We first met

Mayor Joe a week earlier when we were all stranded on the lower lock wall with a lot of stinking dead fish

(who were apparently also stranded). He began making phone calls immediately and received permission to

open and fill the lock to take us all up to the beautiful upper lock wall where we had only live fish and, oh

glory, power and water.

Saturday night, we had a big bon voyage party to reminisce about shared experiences and celebrate our new

friendships. It is amazing what wonderful bonds we formed while enduring this exasperating situation. Our

family of stranded cruisers was about to disband in a flurry of fired up engines and tossed dock lines on

Sunday morning. No more leisurely coffees at the picnic tables, or cocktails at sundown. It was finally time

to pick em up and put em down and GET HOME!

Gary and I agreed that if we had a good weather window to cross Lake Erie, we could skip the mast

stepping in Buffalo and have Brands’ Marina do it back in Port Clinton. This way we could also make it to

work at Put-in-Bay by the June 10th weekend. The masts could remain down, secured in their wooden

cradle with hefty two inch ratcheting straps, as long as no big winds or waves were forecast.

On Monday June 6th, we cleared our final lock, the Federal Lock in Buffalo, and tied up on its upper lock

wall for the night. Gary checked the three weather sources we use, both Monday night and Tuesday morning

before departure. All three concurred that we could expect less than 10 knots of breeze, flat seas, and no

fronts or big storms for the 32 hour overnighter to Port Clinton. This horse was heading to the barn!

It was overcast and drizzling rain on Lake Erie as we began the trek westward. XM weather on our Garmin

showed a band of storms crossing from north to south far west of us on Lake Erie, of no real concern for us

departing Buffalo. Other than that, all was calm and peaceful. As Gary came up into the cockpit from

down below, I remember saying “Boy, the wind seems to be picking up all of a sudden.”

And then my worst nightmare began coming to real life. In an instant, we had six to eight foot waves

crashing over the dodger. The winds howled at what we later heard were reported up to sixty miles per

hour. The robust ratcheting straps began stretching each time Tessa’s bow was buried in a shuddering wave,

and I knew we were in trouble when Gary screamed “I HAVE TO GO OUT THERE AND TIGHTEN THE STRAPS!” I cried to him to please not go out there! His Captain instincts took over as he grabbed my

arms and demanded that I stay calm and get a hold of myself . If he didn’t tighten the straps, the masts were

going overboard and we could lose everything.

He already had a life jacket on, and I ran down below and grabbed the huge offshore type 1 pfd. For the

first time in my life, I came to the shocking realization that there was a good possibility that I might actually
end up in the water.

Gary struggled on deck and managed to tighten the straps as best he could, then crawled back into the
cockpit. Only a few more waves and a few seconds later, they had stretched again and we watched in

disbelief as the structure began heaving forward and aft with each wave. He screamed that he had to go

back out.

I unzipped the dodger front window panel so I could see him and hear him better, but the waves kept
slamming me in the face. Then I watched in horror as the wooden structure supporting the mast on the
forward deck collapsed and everything came crashing down upon Gary. He crumpled under the massive

weight, his head slammed down, and blood spurted across he deck. I was certain he was dead, but at the

same time I was frantically thinking of how I could possibly save us if he wasn’t.

To my amazement, he began struggling out from under the masts. I will never forget the look in his eyes as
he attempted to stand and looked back at me through the blood running down the side of his face. It was a

wide eyed combination of shock, but most of all determination. He was not defeated. (We will leave that to

the Coast Guard, but I’m jumping ahead.)

I kept screaming over and over again “CRAWL TO ME BABY! YOU’RE OK! JUST CRAWL TO ME!”
If he tried to stand in his weakened state, he would surely be knocked overboard by the next wave. I was

certain I could never find him or save him in the wind and waves with the mast hanging sideways across the

decks.

This is where his hard head came into play. Yes, it was cracked, but it was still hard. He kept attempting to
stand up, repeating “I’M OK! STOP WORRYING! I JUST NEED TO GET MY STRENGTH BACK!
I’M OK! CALM DOWN!”

Stop worrying? Seriously, Gary? Okey dookey! Piece of cake! No problemo! I’ll just go on down below
and start chugging bourbon. You just take your good old time and let me know when you are BACK IN
THE COCKPIT INSTEAD OF OVERBOARD!!!!!!!!!!!!!

A lifetime later, he did finally struggle into the cockpit and I determined that he was not in shock or about to
go unconscious. Hopefully. My next thought was that we needed help. If the masts did go overboard, and
damaged the hull, we could sink. We needed to call May Day May Day May Day. Captain Gary disagreed.
“If I’m going to die today, it will not be at the hands of the Coast Guard!” I quickly convinced him that we
needed help standing by if the situation worsened. We placed the call.

After running through all the bureaucratic Coast Guard b.s. several times, they established an ETA of 35
minutes. We were then hailed by Tow Boat U.S., who heard my transmission with the Coast Guard. He
advised he would be there in 5 minutes. How could that be? I asked “Could you repeat your ETA, Tow
Boat U.S.?” “FIVE MINUTES” he replied. We looked behind us, and there was our hero! It was so
comforting to have help within reach!

The mast continued to surge forward and aft with each wave. Luckily, it landed on the forward port lifeline
and wedged itself on our swim ladder on the starboard side, which prevented it from sliding off into the
water. But we had no idea how long it would remain on board.

Gary and the Tow Boat Captain discussed options and decided to head several miles into shore for
protection from the wind. There, Gary was able to secure masts with a line tied around the winch, hoping it
was strong enough to keep them from rolling overboard.

Next he decided we should head back to First Buffalo Marina, the place we were originally going to have
the masts stepped. The gash next to his eye continued to bleed as a huge knot formed. We advised the
marina of our distress situation, and they assured us help would be waiting at the dock.

It wasn’t until after the situation was under control and we were headed to safety that the Coast Guard
arrived, about an hour later than their promised ETA. They came along side and Gary advised that he was

Apparently, this aroused the suspicion of the nearby Border Patrol agents. They came rushing alongside
Tessa, Gary gave them a thumbs up, said he was OK, and advised where we had come from and where we
were now headed. At this response, the Border Patrol agent thought it appropriate to gun it and scream
away, creating a wake that could have easily sent the masts plunging overboard. We both screamed in fear
and frustration.

We continued our slow progress toward safety, and were shocked when the Coast Guard boat reappeared
along side, this time with the Border Patrol agent standing on the bow, screaming that they were boarding
our vessel.

“I am the Captain of this vessel, we are in a dangerous position here, and I DO NOT WANT YOU coming
alongside or boarding us at this time. Follow us to Buffalo!” Gary replied. This really got the power
hungry Border Patrol’s adrenaline flowing. He screamed “YOU MUST COMPLY! WE ARE BOARDING
IMMEDIATELY” as they surged alongside and began boarding.

So, Gary has just narrowly escaped death, we are still in a dangerous, potentially life threatening situation,
he is injured and struggling to get his vessel to safe harbor with masts precariously hanging sideways across
the deck, and they decide this is a good time to conduct a ROUTINE SAFETY CHECK! Could this really
be happening?

Gary blotted a towel against his bleeding face while I scurried around down below complying with their
demands. Once they concluded that Captain Gary had properly posted the ‘Garbage Management
Procedure’ and complied with all other vital safety requirements, the Coast Guard guy thanked Gary and
said to me “I hope this hasn’t soured your opinion of the Coast Guard Ma’am.” At my wits end, I replied
angrily “Just get off our boat!”

We made our way ever so carefully back to First Buffalo River Marina, where Kathy the office manager
advised an EMT would be waiting at the dock. But Dennis Adams is not just an EMT. He was Gary’s
Guardian Angel.

He calmly took charge upon our arrival, which was just what I needed. He evaluated Gary’s condition and
at first wasn’t sure he needed to be rushed to the hospital. Something we were trying to avoid since we have
a mere $5000 deductible on our personal insurance. Ten minutes later, after helping us to secure our
injured Tessa at the dock, he reevaluated and told me “Get him in the truck. We’re going to the Emergency
Room.”

Several hours, x-rays, and ten stitches later, Gary was patched up. Dennis, this man we had known for five
minutes, waited hours for us while entertaining and cheering up other emergency room patients. His
calming comfort unleashed my pent up fears, and I sobbed in the backseat as he drove us back to Tessa.

Oddly, I wasn’t embarrassed. It already felt as though we were family, and it was OK to just “let it out” like
he suggested. After a quick dinner at his favorite KFC, we got Gary back to Tessa and determined it was
time for him to rest. My instructions were to wake him every two hours to be sure there was no concussion.

This wasn’t the last we were to see Dennis. Bright and early the next morning, he was again there to take
charge and supervise the removal of the masts. He doesn’t work for the marina, but considers himself more
of a friendly consultant. We all inspected the masts and were relieved that there was only cosmetic damage,
nothing structural seemed affected. Gary couldn’t keep himself from participating, but soon began to show
signs of exhaustion. We suggested he stretch out for a little nap, which evolved into a six hour one. While
he slept, Dennis took me to pick up Gary’s prescription and to do some provisioning. Then he and his wife
Debbie took us out for a fun, get-your-mind-off-your troubles dinner.

As we climbed into our bunk that night, Gary commented that he doubted he could sleep after sleeping all
day. I suggested he just close his eyes and see what happens. He was immediately snoring, and slept all the
way through the night.

Dennis knocked on the boat bright and early again the next morning, all smiles and jokes, ready for the next

big endeavor…mast stepping. I honestly don’t know how we could have pulled these arduous tasks off

without his help and support, both mentally and physically.

Once that mission was accomplished, Gary was again down for the count. Dennis and I ran some errands

around town, then later the four of us spent another fun-filled evening including a private tour of the City of

Buffalo fireboat.

During our stay, Kathy, the marina office manager, encouraged me to march right over to the Coast Guard

headquarters just a block away and file a formal complaint for their late response and blatantly

inappropriate actions after they did finally arrive. I did just that, to no one’s surprise they admitted to no

wrong. Everything they did was “standard procedure.” How wrong it is that this is now the focus and

misguided mission of the USCG.

The kindness of Dennis, Debbie, Kathy, and the crew of First Buffalo River Marina were heartwarming and

so comforting during this frightening ordeal. If we call back to the marina looking for Dennis and they claim

that he doesn’t exist, it would not surprise us in the least. That’s what Guardian Angels are all about!

A few days later, once I was finally able to look at my injured Captain without crying, we were relaxing in

the cockpit. “You know, honey” I began “If other couples went through what we did, they would probably

experience some kind of life changing, renewed love and appreciation of each other. But I could not love
you or appreciate you any more now than I did before. You & I, we’re just same old, same old.”
He smiled at me through his swollen, stitched up eye and said “So that’s what we are , huh, just same old,

same old?”

“Yep.” I replied. “That’s what we are.”

The eMail that Sparked the "Great Erie Canal Summit of 2011"

2011-06-04T06:58:00.000-07:00

Big news from our stranded sailors aboard the s/v Tessa. While being held up in Baldwinsville, NY along with a dozen other boaters for well over a week, Lori Milson sent the following email to the head of the NY Canal System. This email made an impact that initiated a direct meeting from the BIG KAHUNA himself that will go down in the history books as the "Great Erie Canal Summit of 2011".

Dear Sir,

I am one of a dozen boats stranded at Lock 24 on the Erie Canal. We all planned to enter the canal May 1st, as we do each year,heading westbound to return to our home ports for the summer. News of the delay of opening was accepted, as it was apparent Mother Nature was not cooperating! We needed to be patient.

Several of us waited together in Castleton, then Waterford. As soon as the canal opened in Waterford, we breathed a sigh of relief began our journey. My husband and I had committed to being back to work at our summer jobs back in Port Clinton and Put-in-Bay Ohio by MAY 15. We explained the circustances to our employers, who sympathized with our plight and agreed to hold our jobs for us. Our season officially opens Memorial Day Weekend. Surely we would be back by then?????

We then spent 10 days at Sylvan Beach, on the lock wall with no power or water, waiting for news that Locks 24-26 were opening. We kept the canal website up on our laptop and began the ritual of checking it starting at 7:00 a.m., then a couple more times throughout the day until "business hours" closed at 5:00 p.m. Other stranded boaters called the lockmasters for updates.

"WE HAVE AN UPDATE!" my husband announced on May 19. But excitement faded into disappointment as he read it out loud to me. The update told us nothing more than we should stay tuned for another update early the next week. We each made a call to work. We couldn't promise anything but there was still a chance we could make it home by Memorial Day.

On May 26, the website advised that E-23 was open. We were desperate to make any level of progress, so we departed Sylvan Beach, crossed Oneida Lake, and arrived in Baldwinsville at E-24. We were all trying to stay positive and enjoy the holiday weekend. Gary and I silently worried about our positions slowly slipping away. We all sympathized with our fellow boaters who had booked and paid for a vacation beginning June 3. There was still a slim chance they could make it. We all agreed that SURELY Tuesday morning, you all would come to work, assess the situation, and off we would go.

Tuesday our ritual changed. We now check the website every half hour or so, just in case there is an update. We take turns asking Andy, the sympathetic Lockmaster, if he has any news. I could swear he was almost near tears yesterday as he shrugged his shoulders in defeat. He wants to help but can't make promises he has no power to keep. Some boaters have started calling anyone in a position to tell us anything, throw us a bone, give us some hope.

I am writing to you to ask for reassurance that SOMEONE is feeling the same sense of urgency that we are. It is my hope that you will log on and read the notice to mariners and put yourself in our shoes to understand our frustrations. Trust me, we all understand that you can't fight Mother Nature. We are all experienced cruisers who understand her powers all to well!!

Please help in any way you can. Even if it is not good news, any news is better than being in limbo like this. I can be reached at this email address or by phone at 419-341-****.

Best Regards,

Lori Milson
s/v TESSA

Underway......Sort of!

2011-05-29T05:57:00.000-07:00

This morning at 6:00 a.m., after ten days, we finally departed Sylvan Beach. Lock 23 on the western side of Oneida Lake has opened, mariners can get as far as Baldwinsville. Locks 24-26 are still closed. Several other boats left yesterday to wait it out in Baldwinsville. We were undecided, as we suspected all the boats ahead of us in Brewerton would high-tail it to Baldwinsville and take up all available wall space. But some fellow stranded boaters, Mitch and Lesley, kindly advised that as of yesterday afternoon, there was still room for us.

We are taking a chance, but are desperate to MOVE! Even though each day at Sylvan Beach was a memorable one, I for one was getting really depressed. Another anxious sailor said she just wanted to click her heels like Dorothy in the Wizard of Oz and chant "There's no place like home!" Exactly how we feel!

It helps to stay busy, so we have been doing numerous boat chores. But what helped the most was spending time with Chuck and Donna. We have yet to meet more welcoming, generous friends in all of our travels. Chuck works for the Village of Sylvan Beach, so he swung by Tessa several times a day on his golf cart or his riding lawnmower, just to check on us and see if we needed anything. Several evenings we spent with them, either getting our butts kicked at shuffleboard at the American Legion, or eating at their favorite hang out, Splash's. Chuck knows EVERYONE, therefore we got to know EVERYONE in town. Chuck and Donna's buddies Miles and Bandana Bob joined us for several happy hours. If we weren't so desperate to get home, I'd have to say this would have been one heck of a vacation!

Today, we will miss all the friendly locals saying "You guys are STILL here?" We'll miss Patty, our favorite waitress at the Crazy Clam. We will certainly miss Chuck and Donna. But it feels good to make progress and get even one day closer to home.

THE LAST STRAW!

2011-05-23T16:01:00.000-07:00

It is not bad enough that we are stuck on the Erie Canal indefinitely. We check the NY Canal website every hour or so, begging for an update. We worry about our job slots back in Port Clinton and Put-in-Bay. We miss home and want so bad to get there. We couldn't be more frustrated.

Today was the last straw. To our dismay, we discovered that our favorite Sylvan Beach happy hour bars are CLOSED ON MONDAYS!!!!!!!!! Don't they know we are hanging by a thread here? Since last Wednesday, we have relied steadily on the comfort of warm hospitality and cheap beers to keep a positive outlook. To just pull the happy hour rug out from under us is devastating. We had to eat ice cream today instead of wings and beers. How much worse could it get?

We love the people of Sylvan Beach. Everyone has welcomed the stranded boaters and sympathized with us. We love Chuck and Donna, the great folks we met in 2009 on our way through. People we have met honk horns and wave as they drive past. Our fishing buddy Rodney gave us two precious fresh caught Walleye for dinner Saturday night. He even filleted them for me! If we have to be stuck anywhere, this is about as good as it gets.

But we are so very anxious to move on and complete the western half of the canal, cross Lake Erie, and grab H ball at the bay. Rain is in the forecast for the next ten day period. The water levels need to stabalize so that the locks can operate. And so we wait........

The best laid plans……

2011-05-11T16:12:00.000-07:00

I love it when a plan comes together! 37 days and 1500 nautical miles after we departed Fort Myers Beach, having dodged all the weather bullets Mother Nature shot at us, we arrived at Castleton-on-the-Hudson May 4th, exactly as planned. This would give us enough time to unstep the masts and enter the Erie Canal to rendezvous with Kevin and Carol on Saturday. Eight days after that, we would conclude our journey at Put-in-Bay, in time for Captain Gary to report to West Marine for duty on May 15.
Thanks to the competent help of fellow boaters, the masts came down in record time. In less than a day, everything was secured in place and we were ready to go!

Except Mother Nature saved her biggest insurmountable bullet for us. The Erie Canal did not open May 1st as planned due to flooding and high waters.

OK, let’s stay positive and hope for the best. Perhaps it will only be delayed a few days and we can still continue according to plan.

The long awaited update from the NY Canal System dashed all hopes. The earliest

expected opening is May 23rd. We gathered with other stranded boaters at the Castleton

Boat Club to vent our frustration and drown our sorrows in draft beer. Two wasted

weeks at best!

As Gary reached for his pile of crossword puzzles, I cautioned him. “Don’t get too comfortable there, Captain. I have a plan to get plenty of productive things accomplished.”

A few phone calls later, we were scheduled to have Tessa hauled out Monday morning at nearby Coeyman’s Marina. Here we can complete all of the regular spring maintenance that we usually do after arriving back at Brands’ Marina in Port Clinton.

After my boyfriend Don from Castleton Boat Club ran us all over town provisioning, we were ready to head for Coeymans Marina Sunday night. Gary promised me a Step-

Mothers Day martini at the adjacent restaurant. While enjoying a cold crisp Bombay

martini with blue cheese stuffed olives, we began chatting with the other local bar
patrons. One particularly friendly and charming guy named Eric entertained us while waiting for his friend from Ohio to show up. Maybe we might know him, being from Ohio ourselves, he suggested. Ohio isn’t that big of a state, right?

So here we sit, hundreds of miles away from home in Update New York, and Eric’s
friend turns out to be a fellow West Carrollton High School graduate. Eric’s jaw dropped
to the floor when I said “Hello Tom Barker. I know you!” We took a trip down high

school memory lane until Captain and I decided it was time to get some shut eye.

The haul out went according to plan on Monday morning, then we went to work

preparing the hull for bottom paint. Yesterday, Gary completed that task, and today I

begin cleaning the hull before we begin to wax on wax off. We hope to have everything

done by Saturday so that we can launch Tessa just in case the canal situation improves

and opens earlier than anticipated.

That is the plan for now!

Stuck in ol’ Beach Haven AGAIN!

2011-05-02T07:04:00.000-07:00

After being weathered in for five days, for a healthy dose of optimism, mix three fingers

of gin and a dash of olive juice. Pour over ice and shake until bruised and icy cold.

Serve up with three anchovy stuffed olives. Toast to calm seas and light breezes.

It worked! This morning, we opened our eyes at dawn and lay in our bunk listening for

the howling winds that had hammered us for five straight days and nights. Other than the

calls of the gulls, it was totally quiet. Hurraaaay!

We are finally on the home stretch to New York and the Statue of Liberty!

It seems like much longer than a week ago that we dined on Crabby Eggs Benedict for

Easter breakfast, steamed crabs for lunch, and scallops for dinner while docked in

Hampton Virginia. Although the overnighter from there Monday was very bumpy, it was
uneventful. With the dawn Tuesday morning came a blanket of thick fog. The sun and

stiff winds were not even successful in burning it off, so by late afternoon we were

contemplating where to duck into for a well deserved break. Captain Gary determined
that we were within striking distance of Beach Haven New Jersey, one of our favorite
places along the east coast.

Gary hailed TowBoat U.S. for some moral support, and within seconds our buddy Captain Rick responded. Rick earned hero status in 2008 when he guided our battered and weary crew in off the Atlantic after a fourteen hour storm, and he came through for us once again. As tsunami looking waves roared over the shoal to port and starboard, Rick

talked us through the Little Egg Inlet. The fog decided to envelope us completely as we made the turn toward the skinny channel leading to Beach Haven Yacht Club, and the reds and greens disappeared from sight. Gary pointed Tessa ever so slowly in each direction while I desperately searched for the markers through the thick milky fog. We

bumped across the bottom every way we turned. Where did the channel go? We could

almost hear Rick muttering under his breath “Damn Sailors!” as he announced over the

VHF that he was coming to get us. We tucked our tail between our legs and timidly
followed TowBoat U.S. into the dock, fully expecting to be harassed relentlessly by

Captain Rick. He actually went pretty easy on us, although he would have preferred

Tessa had gone hard aground out there since he makes more money on the “grounders.”

Beach Haven is the perfect place to be weathered in. We had warm reunions with dock master Ernie and my girlfriend Sailboat Linda. We drank happy hour beers with our friends at Tuckers, and enjoyed the famous $2.22 breakfast at Uncle Wills. We walked the beach and ate clam chowder. We listened to NOAA predict 5 to 10s, then sat in the

cockpit and watched the anemometer register 25 knots, 28 knots, 30 knots, while Rick giggled merrily in anticipation of grounders and stranded vessels.

Tonight’s destination is an anchorage at Sandy Hook. Tomorrow, hopefully we will be

waving to Lady Liberty for the fourth time. Then we’re off to the Hudson River for a two

day trip toward Castleton, where we will unstep the masts in preparation for the Erie

Canal trip.

It seems like much more than thirty days ago that we left Fort Myers, and it seems like FOREVER since I saw my last palm tree. But we have much to look forward to in the days ahead on the Erie Canal. And then that most welcome sight of Perry’s Monument coming into view across Lake Erie. Home sweet home!

"We're having fish tonight!"

2011-04-25T07:28:00.000-07:00

Revisiting the Intracoastal is just one big trip down memory lane.

The bridges in Florida. (We go through 32 bridges today? Seriously?) The shallow

water. (It’s not a question as to whether we are aground. Are we aground at high tide or

low tide?) The fishermen in the Carolinas. ( Could you possibly block the center of the

channel any more, guys?) The rusty “mustache” on our bow. (Will I ever get that off?)

The Albemarle Sound. ( Do we REALLY have to do that again?)

The memories that really count are of the unforgettable people that you meet along the
way.

Tessa and crew have been stuck in the Intracoastal since Beaufort North Carolina, as the

winds and waves around Cape Hatteras are strong and dangerous. So we began looking

forward to docking at R.E. Mayo’s commercial fishing dock on Goose Creek once again.

In 2008, we had the pleasure of meeting the honorable Mr. Roy Watson, who was 93 at

the time. He held court around their wood burning stove, telling stories while we warmed

up. We were captivated by his personality, charm, and kindness and hoped to enjoy his

company again this trip.

Thursday evening we docked just before sundown and enjoyed chicken tacos aboard and

a movie. Yesterday morning we hurried into the store office to check in and see Mr. Roy

again. His rocking chair was occupied by a younger man, who said that Roy had sold out.

“Passed on” is what immediately crose our minds. It was a relief to learn that the current

occupant of the chair, Mike Potter, was the new owner’s son. Roy was alive and well,

and had recently sold the business to Carol and Birdie Potter.

We each grabbed a rocking chair to enjoy their Southern hospitality and get acquainted

with Captain Mike. This day was no run of the mill Friday. He had just docked an hour

before from a 17 day scallop fishing expedition out on the Atlantic. He, his crew, and the

Potter family were in a celebratory mood, as the Jane Carolyn was loaded with her limit

of scallops. 18,000 pounds! They also brought in lots of flounder, including a big

whopping 15 pounder.

“Can we buy some?” I pleaded, salivating. “Not to be greedy, but would you happen to

have some fresh crabs so I can whip up some crabmeat stuffing for the flounder?”

He disappeared for a few minutes and returned with a zip lock bag of last night’s leftover

fried scallops and flounder. I am sure he expected us to heat them up for lunch or dinner,

but we devoured the entire bag right then and there, at 8:30 a.m., while we continued to

chat.

We overheard Mike call one of the guys over and ask about crabs, but I was surprised
when he whispered a little later that “your crabs are on your boat.” Sure enough, crabs

were on our boat. Not just a couple of crabs. A full LAUNDRY BASKET of them!

Could any one be more hospitable and generous? Well, Mike was only getting warmed

up! After he came on board to tour Tessa, we swapped some more stories and relaxed for

a few minutes until it was time to unload the bootie, which Mike invited us to watch. It is

a fascinating, fast, and furious process, which takes an astonishing two hours to

accomplish. After the scallops are shucked in the “house of pain” where carpal tunnel syndrome flourishes, they go into 50 pound bags which are tossed down a ramp, then

loaded into a big cardboard tower. All the while, workers are fork lifting ice into large

containers to be shoveled on top of the scallops before sealing each tower up. From there

they go to seafood distributors in New Bedford, then to retail stores, then to customers,

then to the frying pan.

Mike gave us a tour of the Jane Carolyn, then took us on a land tour of the local area, all

the while sharing interesting local lore. We were having a fantastic time, and wished we

could spend the entire day. Due to a tight schedule to get to New York we really could

not afford to delay departure. But not before Mike did one final favor! He demonstrated

how to properly fillet and scale a flounder.

All the way to the anchorage last night, and then while we savored fresh crab stuffed

flounder, we marveled at our good fortune. We could have been grieving over spending a

thousand dollars in Beaufort on a fuel injection pump, but already that pain has begun to

subside. We could be frustrated about being forced to do the Intracoastal with all of it’s

challenges, delays, and financial strains. We could be obsessing over going outside in the

North Atlantic overnight to New York. (OK, one of us is, but that’s beside the point.)

The point is, we are living a life that most only dream about, and we have the opportunity

to get to know some absolutely wonderful, unforgettable people. People who, after only

spending days….or even hours with, we are honored to call our friends.

Monday April 18

2011-04-18T08:28:00.000-07:00

We are outside (on the Atlantic vs the Intracoastal) en route to Beaufort North Carolina. The seas are calm with no wind to sail at this point. It is predicted to pick up to 15 knots this afternoon from the south, which will be a welcome change from what we experienced after St. Augustine.
Chas arrived safely last Wednesday, and we had another unexpected guest for dinner that night. Jim Jordan (Myassis Dragon) was in Jacksonville on business and took the time to drive to St. Augustine to party with us for a few hours. We had a great time catching up.

Chas enjoying my now famous lettuce wedge

Thursday morning we departed St. Augustine and enjoyed a full day of calm seas and light winds. We alternated sailing and motor sailing, but at least the sails were up! Chas started his watch at 2:00 a.m. Friday morning with comfortable conditions, but around 5:00 a.m., the wind began blowing directly on our nose, from the north, at a steady 15-20 knots. And it continued to blow all day long, burying Tessa's bow and throwing walls of saltwater against our "picture window" and clear down the decks. The strength of the water forced it's way into any crack, crevise, or weak point and leaks sprung up everywhere down below. The crew decided to duck in at Charleston instead of our original destination of Southport, which would have entailed a second overnighter. We had had enough abuse!

OMG, did we make a good call! Saturday, violent storms and winds buffetted Charleston, as well as much of the Midsouth and Mideast. 25-30 knot winds sent waves surging across the bay, crashing broadside to all the boats tied up along the MegaDock at Charleston City Marina. We put out extra bumpers and then ran down the dock assisting others and loaning out spare bumpers. Once it appeared as though Tessa was protected, we left the marina to meet up with Chas' girlfriend Kerry and friend Wac to visit West Marine (of course) and downtown Charleston.

Our party was interrupted by a call from the marina, saying that several boats were sustaining damage and that we should return as soon as possible.

The first thing I saw as I scurried down the dock was splinters of dock wood. Our mega-fender had split right down the middle, and another bumper line had worn through so that the bumper was uselessly floating under the dock. Tessa's rub rail had ground against the dock until dock neighbors and marina dockhands managed to replace the bumpers. She will need some repairs, but she'll be fine!

As quickly and fiercly the storm came upon us, it left us with totally calm conditions for a Sunday morning departure. Calm, but unfortunately no wind for sailing. So we have been running the faithful Perkins for over 24 hours. We are hoping for the wind to pick up and maybe just maybe come from a favorable direction for a change. Looking forward to a stop in Beaufort before sunset tonight if all goes as planned.

sleeping after a long hard shift

Tomorrow we will lose our crew/entertainment, Chas, as his leave is up. I hope the positives of this journey outweigh the negatives so that he will join us again. Even though we discovered his entire bunk and duffel bag (and all his clothes) filled with saltwater Friday night, his phone and wallet did dry out, so maybe he won't hold that against Mother Ocean for too long!

WE’RE ON VACATION!

2011-04-14T08:56:00.000-07:00

Since our arrival in St. Augustine last Saturday afternoon, it has felt like we are on

vacation. After the hectic winter living and working in Fort Myers, it is really fun to be a

tourist for a change.

We have been sleeping in. We’ve been exploring historic St. Augustine. Instead of hot

dogs, we drank Sangria for lunch yesterday. We have met many interesting people at the

local happy hours and sampled the regional cuisine (including our first deep fried

cheeseburger) instead of cooking on board. We have actually sat in the cockpit and done

absolutely nothing but enjoy the surroundings. We are soaking up all the relaxation we

can, knowing that once Chas arrives tomorrow, it is full speed ahead north on the

Atlantic. During that leg of the trip it is all work and no play.

The trip from Miami to St. Augustine was the usual combination of good and bad

conditions. The bright Miami skies and comfortable waves turned into overcast skies and

bumpy waves, so Captain Gary decided to enter the Intracoastal at Port Everglades.

I loved this part of the trip, marveling at the mega yachts and mega mansions. Gary, not

so much. He got to watch the depths go from almost-deep-enough to not-quite-deepenough

for our six foot draft, while dodging boat traffic and anticipating bridge openings.

All 33 of them from Ft. Lauderdale to Fort Pierce!!! Some of the bridge operators are

friendly and competent. Some seem to enjoy the power and control they have over

boaters and exercise it to the limit.

We spent the first Intracoastal evening anchored in Boca Raton Lake, which is really

nothing more than a shallow (yes, we went aground) wide area beside the channel with

room for a few boats.

Next morning, we were up at dawn heading toward Stuart to anchor near our friend

Jage’s marina. She warned that the St. Lucie Inlet and River were shallow, but friends

just did it with only a few bumps on the bottom. Gary slowly made the turn off the

intracoastal toward the river and BUMP BUMP BUMP, aground again. He worked us

off the bottom and headed back up the Intracoastal toward another anchorage option

where the chart showed 8 feet. And right at that spot, we went aground yet again.

“I LOVE THE INTRACOASTAL” he growled over and over again.

Eventually, we dropped the anchor just off the channel, far enough to be out of

everyone’s way, but certainly not in an anchorage where the other shallower draft boats

were congregated. Good enough!

The next morning we hightailed it to the Fort Pierce Inlet and waved bye-bye to the

Intracoastal and hello to the Atlantic, where Captain sighed with happiness as the depth

sounder read over 100 feet.

I, too, appreciate the depth but it usually comes with a price. Like big winds and waves.

This overnight voyage to St. Augustine was a pleasant surprise. We got the best of both

worlds. Deep water and calm, calm, calm.

It was so calm I could move around down below without holding on to anything.

It was so calm that boiling water was not life threatening.

It was so calm, a glass of chocolate milk waited patiently on the counter instead of
toppling over the moment I removed my grip to close the fridge.
It was so calm, I was comfortable enough on deck to bring out the fishing poles.
It was so calm, I allowed Gary to wander around on deck checking rigging and cleaning
stainless.

It was so calm that we could rest comfortably in the cockpit all through the night enjoying
the ocean instead of tolerating it.
It was so calm that…OK! OK! we had to run the Perkins the entire way instead of sailing.
I may lose every sailor’s respect by saying this but I LOVED IT!!!!!!!!!

Once the sun came up Saturday morning, we saw all kinds of activity. Dolphins, Manta
Rays, Turtles, Manatees, everyone was feeding and frolicking in the tranquil turquoise
sea. It was a fantastic ending to a lovely trip.

Now, we prepare for the next leg of our journey toward Southport or Beaufort North

Carolina, depending on weather conditions. My part of the preparation is to provision, as

we have depleted our supply of food. We blew through the fresh fruits and produce, the
Caesar salads and lettuce wedges with blue cheese and bacon bits. The lamb chops, roast

duckling, grilled pork tenderloin, mahi mahi, alligator tail, rib eye steaks, and angel hair

with clam sauce were all superb.

Since we have no transportation, I plan to walk over to 7-Eleven and stock up on hot

dogs, pork rinds, a few cans of SpaghettiOs, and beef jerky for Chas’ leg of the trip. I am

sure he’ll understand.

Heading Home!

2011-04-08T08:33:00.000-07:00

As we were sailing from Rodrigez Key toward Key Biscayne yesterday, the lyrics from Jimmy Buffet's song kept running through our minds. "It was a beautiful day, the kind you want to toast!" Yesterday was, in fact, one of our best sailing days ever, a cruiser's idea of perfection.

Bright blue sunny skies. CHECK!

Favorable warm winds coming from the right direction. CHECK!

Breathtaking turquoise water. CHECK!

Tessa charging along at six and seven knots. CHECK!

Back on ball 12 looking at the stunning Miami skyline last night. CHECK!

We had large doses of all that we love about the keys and Miami, and a small dose of what we remembered we did not love so much. It felt as though we had earned this beautiful day after the rough start of our journey home!

We debated about departing Fort Myers last Tuesday, as the winds were predicted to be on our nose and building late the following day. If we waited for a better weather window, it wouldn't open for four more days. Tuesday was picture perfect calm, we had already said our goodbyes, so Tessa and her crew agreed that it was time to go, even though we would need to travel overnight to complete the18 hour trip to Marathon and Bahia Honda.

Tessa slid past Marco Island's beautiful lights shortly after sunset, and we enjoyed a nice comfortable ride until midnight, when the winds picked up...NOT PREDICTED...and beat the crap out of us for the next sixteen hours. Nothing scary but just pain-in-the-butt uncomfortable. I slept a bit off and on, Gary napped for 1/2 hour during the twenty seven hour cruise. He claimed that Tessa wouldn't let him sleep, as he was jarred awake with each pounding wave.

It felt great to drop anchor Wednesday evening in one of our favorite spots, Bahia Honda. As luck would have it, Cuzzin Debbie and Mike were vacationing just south of us, and Cuzzin Pammy and family were vacationing just north of us at Duck Key. We certainly couldn't have planned this reunion, but happily it worked out just perfect! Thursday we celebrated a wonderful day on Tessa, kids swimming, adults imbibing, everyone laughing and relishing this unexpected time together. We truly missed Mike, who was with his ailing father, but his buddy Bobby Sutter filled in with some comic relief.

Friday morning we weighed anchor and headed to Rodrigez Key, where we planned to spend the night. Once again, the winds and waves were about opposite of what was predicted, and we bounced our way north east with head sail snapping and rigging clanging, as Tessa tried to deal with shifting winds from every direction except the one we wanted. Thankfully, Friday evening was calm and peaceful and we got a good nights rest.

Saturday dawned sunny and beautiful, with the perfect wind direction. The day could not have been more perfect. We were so excited to get back to Key Biscayne, even more so when Rickenbacker Marina invited us back to ball 12, where we spent the winter of 2009.

And then we entered Government Cut, and remembered what we DID NOT like about Miami. Every go-fast boat sped by at full throttle, throwing a wake that no one would consider doing in normal boating communities. They came at us from all directions, passing, crossing, full speed ahead, Latino music blaring, bikinis dancing, and Captain Gary cursed all the way to ball 12. After the peacful tranquility of the keys, this was GO-FAST overload.

But he navigated us safely and happily to ball 12 and here we will stay until the weather window opens for another Atlantic journey. It is a wonderful place with wonderful friends and I wouldn't mind if we were weathered in for weeks....but home calls and soon we will head north.

Friday, January 14

2011-01-18T02:16:00.000-08:00

Time Flies When You’re...

Wait a minute! Is it almost the middle of January 2011???
That means we’ve been in Fort Myers for nine weeks. Which means it’s been eight weeks since my last update. No wonder everyone is harassing me!

Understand, people, that we have not been laying in the sun, listening to Jimmy Buffet and drinking Pina Coladas! Well…we have been drinking a bit, but not expensive Pina Coladas. Our drink of choice is a $1.00 draft.

However, the majority of our time has been spent taking care of business. Seriously. Living on a boat is not a life of leisure. There is constant maintenance and upkeep to be done. When you finish one project, another needs to be started. Honestly. OK, never mind, no one is sympathizing here. We might as well come clean.

First we did in fact work a lot, cleaning up Tessa and Taken Care of Business after the long trip south. There were water lines and hulls to clean, top sides and decks to pressure wash, and teak to be cleaned and oiled.

The day we checked in at Matanzas, Gary saw an ad in the local newspaper for a job fair at the new “Nauti Turtle” bar and restaurant, inviting people to bring their resumes between 1:00 and 4:00. He scurried back to Tessa, hastily composed a resume, and off he went on his special yellow bike (compliments of Tarpon Spring’s Ted) to apply.

As he is filling out his application, Brad Meyers, a former bartender at The Goat at PIB, pats him on the back and asks how he’s doing. When he turned to the gal accepting applications, he was surprised to see that it was Marika, the manager of J.F. Walleyes at Middlebass Island. It was, as they say, old home week at the Nauti Turtle.

The following Monday, we ran into Marika at happy hour, and she told Gary he was asked back for a second interview. She encouraged me to come along and apply if I was interested in joining the fun.

Long story short, we were both hired for an opening later in December. In the meantime, Gary checked in with the West Marine on San Carlos, and was thrilled to learn that they were going to have some hours for him this winter, probably a day or two a week. We agreed that we had better pile on the fun while we can!

One of the first fun adventures for Captain and I was to attend the annual Sand Castle Competition in late November. We left Walt and Vickie having cocktails at the Yucatan and jumped on the trolley down to the south end of the island where the event was being held. For a couple of hours we wandered around in amazement, trying to digest the fact that what we were seeing were actual sand sculptures. They were incredible. We didn’t get any really good pictures, as we didn’t spend the big bucks ($10.00 each) to get up close. That’s two pitchers of beer for gosh sakes!

Walt and Vickie phoned to say they were STILL at the Yucatan drinking with a crazy couple from Scotland. They demanded that we stop by for a beer. We contemplated stopping by to be sure they could make it back to their boat safely. So we pulled up a stool at their table and promptly witnessed the drunken Scottish girl lay a big lip lock on Vickie! Apparently, they had hit it off quite nicely. Vickie informed us she was going to Scotland to visit her new BF. Several spilled drinks later, the Scottish guy carried Vickie’s BF out of the bar and we convinced the Loopers to head home with Gary’s assistance. This, we wondered, is what happens when we let those two out of our sight for one afternoon?

A couple of Sundays later, they agreed to meet us at our favorite Sunday spot. The Dek in Cape Coral offers $1.00 Bloody Marys, Mimosas, Screw Drivers, and a daily special of a large pizza and pitcher of beer for $10.00. We knew Walt and Vickie would fit right in, as it is a “biker bar” and they rode Harleys for a while during one of their past mid-life crises. They were an hour into the dollar drinks when we arrived, and it wasn’t a round or two later that they made more BFs at the bar. Walt’s BF was Torra, a gorgeous blond, who began lavishing him with attention, just like Vickie does at home. Soon we were following them to a big Tiki Bar across the street, where a band harmonized away while the crowd filled the dance floor. Here, Vickie danced with several new friends while Walt gazed longingly at Torra, just like he gazes at Vickie at home. Our buddy Doug Lane was visiting this weekend, and he had secured a room at the Holiday Inn within walking distance to either bar. Therefore, we had permission to peg the fun meter with no worries about driving. Vickie departed with plans to see another new BF the following day on board Taken Care of Business.

“You can’t let me do this any more!” she groaned the next morning. As though any one could reign in her natural ability to make new friends!

Late November, Dave and Lynnette flew into Fort Myers and spent a fun packed evening on their way to Key West. We started the evening in a mature fashion, dining at Nervous Nellie’s and listening to our favorite local group “The Yard Dogs”. Things began to slide down that slippery slope when they ordered a Margarita the size of a bird bath. Gary and I were sliding right behind them after downing several house drafts. The Yard Dogs kept playing, and we kept partying, until the Wernings remembered that they had to get up at 6:00 am the following morning. I was excited to get back to Tessa and serve a key lime pie for dessert.

Except…..as we were walking back to Tessa, we heard a familiar sound that never fails to suck us in. Drunk people singing KARAOKE! We MUST join in for one round, mustn’t we?

Several rounds and songs later, we escaped from the Karaoke clutches and hurried to Matanzas office, where my key lime pie was stored in their freezer. Sadly, by that time the office was locked up tight for the night. What a scene we must have made. Four inebriated adults transformed into disappointed children, each with a raging sweet tooth, our faces pressed against the glass door, peering into the dark office and hoping for a miracle that would allow us access to the pie. Needless to say, 6:00 a.m. came way too early the next morning.

Before Thanksgiving, we celebrated Trace and Diane’s return to Matanzas at Fort Myers Beach with a party box of oysters. It was so great to be together again, and this reunion signified the official beginning of our winter here in Fort Myers.

We spent Thanksgiving by traveling to be with our Annapolis Boat Show buddies in St. Mary’s Georgia. The plan was to make the seven hour drive on Tuesday, so that we could maximize our time together Wednesday and Thursday, then drive back to Fort Myers on Friday. Unexpectedly, West Marine needed Gary to work on Friday. In keeping with our philosophy of working whenever possible, he accepted the hours. With so much going on, we just weren’t ready to head over there Tuesday, so we didn’t arrive in St. Mary’s until Wednesday afternoon just in time for our annual Painkiller Party on the dock. After a wonderful reunion with Jage, Archie, Leslie and Boat Show friends, the time flew by so fast that it was time for the Thanksgiving feast way too soon. We must be getting old, because we did the sensible thing and drove home Thursday after the big dinner, so that Gary could be fresh for work on Friday morning.

Early December, we made our annual trip back north to spend Christmas with our Port Clinton pals, Mom, and both of our families. We slept around as usual, and had a wonderful time with the many special people that we love and miss during our travels south. Gary and I so enjoyed our Sushi lunch with Mom. I phoned a local friend prior to it, inquiring about the best sushi place in town for lunch with Mom. “Your 83 year old Mom loves Sushi?” he asked incredulously. “Absolutely!” I answered. Mom is definitely one of a kind!

During the Christmas trek home, my brother David and I were suffering together with simultaneous outbreaks of our genetic inherited Hailey-Hailey skin disease. We compared notes and medications, and hoped that soon the outbreaks would subside. We knew that there is no cure for the disease, but we also knew all the home remedies that provide relief while the outbreak runs it’s course.

Unfortunately for me, it did not subside. Instead, it flamed on and expanded across my chest to encompass a patch the size of a saucer. To spare the horrible details, suffice to say that I have been in pain and discomfort for the past six weeks. I did not give in and miss work at the Nauti Turtle, but I sure wasn’t top of form, worrying about blood showing through my t-shirt and agonizing over the affects of keeping it covered all day. The most comfortable position was flat on my back in our bunk with a fan blowing across the wound to try to keep it dry. I suffered and cried, and Gary was so beside himself trying to help and make it all better. He encouraged me to stay strong and keep fighting, but it kept getting worse instead of showing any improvement.

A week ago, we sought a dermatologist’s help… and help me he did! His biopsy revealed that it had progressed to a staph infection, which he treated appropriately and I am feeling wonderful, heavenly relief.

After this long ordeal, I have a new appreciation of simply stepping off of Tessa and walking the dock without pain. I am no longer laying in our bunk down below, lonely and depressed, listening to the outside music and laughter. I was avoiding the entire reason we are here…activity, sun, and warmth, which only aggravate the condition.

Life is feeling good again! That’s not to say all of the last six weeks was totally ruined by the skin issue. There were many occasions where I covered it up and forgot about it for a while.

Dick and Molly Widdis invited us to an open house at their lovely, newly decorated condo in North Fort Myers.

My birthday lunch was spent at The Dek with Trace, Diane, and Don Dunn, enjoying our favorite $10.00 pizza and beer combo. That night, Gary and I celebrated by quietly slurping a couple dozen raw and grilled oysters.

We spent our third annual Christmas together with Don and Lauren, celebrating Christmas Eve with their Pine Island friends, grazing and drinking. Christmas Day the four of us joined June Stoiber and friends for a feast at her home in Naples.

Mark and Carole came down from Dayton to their estate home in North Fort Myers, and we spent a great evening dining at the Nauti Turtle.

Paige and Jim arrived at Fort Myers Beach right after Christmas, renting the same beach house as last year, which was our “party central” again for New Years Eve. Kevin and Carole, Larry and Debbie, and Denny and Sue came down from Ohio for vacation, and shared in the New Years Eve daytime festivities. Chas, his girlfriend Karrie, and his buddy Wac drove down from Fayetteville to ring in the New Year with us. Our good friends from Dayton, Greggie-Boy and Charlotte, and Huggy Jean and her friends joined us for food and fun and fireworks on the beach.

During the entire holiday season, we have been continuously surrounded by wonderful family and friends, which is really all that matters in the big picture. The saying “If you’ve got your health, you’ve got your wealth” isn’t exactly on the mark. We have realized that even though my health wasn’t up to par, we are still so very wealthy in all that is important. We have each other, and we have the love of family and friends.

We wish the same blessings for everyone in this New Year. Please be sure to count them and cherish them every day of 2011!

Carrabelle to Fort Myers

2010-11-19T08:08:00.000-08:00

The mast stepping in Carrabelle could have been a painfully expensive endeavor, but thanks to the kindness of a very special family who owns Dockside Marina, it was truly an enjoyable experience.

Our plan was to rent their crane and crane operator and do all the labor ourselves, just like we did at Dog River Marina in Mobile last year. This saves a lot of money, and after having done it several times, we are getting pretty darn good at it. We were totally unfamiliar with this marina, but dared to ask if we could take the masts off the boat the night before the stepping so that we could have everything prepared and minimize the crane rental time. Randy said no problem, he would bring the forklift over and lift them off. In his eagerness to help, we suspect they underestimated the amount of time and manpower involved.

As we pulled into the slip, two friendly dock hands appeared and helped with the lines. Shortly, Randy came down to survey the situation, and guys just kept appearing after that until we had a half dozen of them, scurrying around Tessa, ribbing each other while figuring out how in the heck they were going to move these "telephone pole" sticks! Eric, the owner, joined in and eventually the masts were stretched across saw horses.

As I am the designated worrier, I assumed the position and expressed my concern about the cost associated with all the labor and help already incurred, when we hadn't even started stepping the masts! Gary, the designated placater, assured me everything would work out just fine. The guys were great, Eric was great, life was good. Let's have a cocktail and relax!

The next morning, the guys were ready to start stepping, but first we had to move Tessa from the lift slip over closer to where the crane could pull up. Tessa decided to take control of the situation and refused to cooperate with the winds and current, and soon we had a dock hand on the boat with us and several guys positioned on the dock pulling lines with all their might. Since we could not pull up parallel do the dock, Eric decided to turn her around and back into the slip to step the mizzen mast first. Next, turn her bow in to step the main. All the while, the hours ticked by and I counted $$$$ like watching a spinning taxi meter heading to Chicago O'Hare.

Instead of leaving it to Gary and I to handle all the labor, the guys gathered around and efficiently got everything done. I commented to one of them that it looked like they were having fun! "This is fun...as long as everything goes right!" one of them replied. Eric was the last one on the scene, checking to make sure everything was completed properly. "Eric" I asked "Should I just bring the title to Tessa up to the office to settle up???" He just laughed and offered his truck for our use that night. We accepted, and ran across the river to pick Walt and Vickie up for one last supper at Old Salts Cafe. The oysters and grouper was as good as the first time.

We awoke early the next morning, anxious about paying our tab. Eric slid the invoice across the counter and I looked up in amazement. He smiled and said "I didn't charge you for all the labor." All we could do was offer a very heartfelt "THANK YOU!" Not only did we receive the royal treatment for almost three days, but they offered it generously with no strings attached. What great people!

We hated to leave this hospitable group, but needed to get back across the river to the Moorings Marina, where Bryan Diveto and Danielle were scheduled to rendezvous with us on Sunday, in time for an early Monday morning departure toward Tarpon Springs.

The weather was ideal for crossing the Gulf.....for Walt and Vickie. Calm seas and bright sunny skies, but lacking in one critical element for us. WIND! The masts were up, sails ready to fill, and we got nutthin! We didn't complain much as the Perkins droned on and on for the 24 hour overnighter to Tarpon Springs, as it could have be A LOT worse. Since it was calm enough to be out on deck to fish, we threw a lure out and Bryan reeled in what we thought was a small tuna. I filleted it on the stern deck, and tucked it right in the freezer for dinner. To our disappointment, it was a "Little Tunney" which sounds close, but definitely not tuna quality fillets. Strong and a weird consistency.

Anyway, who needed Tuna when we arrived at Tarpon Springs ready to feast on the Greek culinary delights. But our first delight was meeting Ted, the dock master of Tarpon City Marina. He professionally handled our docking procedure, all the while welcoming us exuberantly and explaining that he was not Greek, just a Polish guy imitating one. Picture Bruno from Dancing with the Stars, only much more masculine. Soon the Tessa crew joined Walt and Vickie on shore, all surrounding Ted to catch the next laugh. When I told him I might have to jump ship to stay with him on his big roomy SeaRay, I became his "Chickie".

Ted was generous enough to offer his somewhat rusty mountain bike for Walt to ride to Walgreens. Vickie wisely declined on Walt's behalf, so Ted next offered the bike to Gary. Not just to ride, to keep! Gary gleefully accepted, pumped up the tires, and off he rode to West Marine. Little did Ted know that he had just donated Gary's transportation to work in Fort Myers.

Each one of us enjoyed every charming aspect of Tarpon Springs. The Greek food, the beautiful pastries, the octopus, the Ouzo, and most importantly, the sponges. They didn't give the sponge fishermen convention enough credit in "Captain Ron". It is a fascinating industry, which we learned all about during the "Spongerama" movie. After shopping and laughing and playing with sponges, we did in fact buy several of them. These are not your everyday blue or yellow kitchen sink sponges. They are works of art!

As much as we hated to leave Ted and Tarpon Springs, the Tessa crew departed the next afternoon for destination Fort Myers. 20 uneventful hours later, we entered Matanzas Pass and arrived safely at a mooring ball. We celebrated with champagne toasts and then were treated to pitchers of beer and garlic teriyaki wings at one of our favorite hangouts, The Beached Whale.

Bryan and Danielle departed with his Mom and Stepdad, and Gary and I wandered around town seeking out old friends from last season. Gary kept saying "We're home, baby!" and after the long, exciting eight week journey, it felt wonderful to be back.

For the past week, it has been a whirlwind of activity, which will soon be documented in another update. For now, I must get back to work and finish pressure washing the decks!

Friday, November 5

2010-11-07T04:53:00.000-08:00

We successfully arrived in Destin in time to see Bob and Mary Jane and Brad and Chris for two days before they headed back home to Ohio. The docking procedure, however, was far from successful. Without going back through the painful details, we will just say that both Tessa and Taken Care of Business did not like Destin Harborwalk Marina A LOT!

It was a great evening together at their Destin Towers condos. I fried up some of Bob and Brad's freshly caught Red Snapper, served with a clean-out-the-refrigerators buffet. The sun went down and the look in Vickie's eyes expressed exactly what I was thinking. It's time for us cruisers to be in bed! After six weeks of waking with the sun and going to sleep with the sun, we run out of steam after dark.

The next day, Vickie looked on in disgust as Gary, Walt, and I purchased a box of 8 dozen fresh oysters at the seafood shop. "What are you going to DO with all of those?" she asked incredulously. "SLURP EM!" we replied! Raw, Grilled, Rockefellerd, Steamed, each one was delectable. Vickie had a BLT.

That night, compliments of Bob and Brad, I served panko crusted snapper with Thai red chili sauce and basmati rice. The crowd loved it. Way too soon, it was time to say good night and goodbye, as we were all travelling the next day.

Saturday morning the boaters were off to Panama City. Taken Care of Business was behind us, and Vickie said Walt complained all the way, claiming that all he could see was empty oyster shells flying off Tessa's deck. Not true!

We like to time a marina arrival so that we have a few hours to enjoy the port before dark, instead of arriving late in the evening and paying just for a place to sleep. However, travelling on the intracoastal is unpredictable, and we barely got to Panama City before sundown in time to have a cocktail and some grilled oysters. Vickie had a hamburger.

After a short stay, we moved on early the next morning towards Apalachicola. The sky was breathtaking, casting long rays of sunshine downward toward the water. This portion of the intracoastal included a nice comfortable channel through swamp country. As we cruised along enjoying the scenery, we came upon the first boat we had seen the entire day. When the name "Serenity" became visible, I screamed to Gary "THAT'S JIM!" and ran toward the bow waving. What are the odds that we would cross paths here on the intracoastal when the last time we saw each other we were bidding farewell in Fort Myers last April, after mooring together for the winter? Jim grew up in Fort Walton Beach and he had departed from there a few days earlier after visiting his parents. We cruised side by side catching up quickly before he made his turn toward Port St. Joe and the Gulf. Just as Jim said, the wonderful part of cruising is that you meet good people, you become a part of each other's lives, you go your separate ways, and sooner or later it is meant to be that you cross paths again.

Once again the day, and daylight, slipped away too fast, and we decided to anchor is a popular hurricane hole instead of arriving in Apalachicola in the evening. Taken Care of Business moved faster than Tessa, so they continued on. This was indeed a perfect spot to drop the hook. Scenic, secluded, and safe! It was a little disconcerting when we spotted our only neighbor....a partially sunken trawler. Gary surmised that they didn't quite survive the last hurricane. I concluded that if we had to hole up somewhere, this would be my choice. It was so peaceful and quiet that night that I found myself laying in bed listening for something, anything, except the crickets. You get used to so many sounds, some comforting and some not, at anchor or at a dock, that they lull you to sleep. This night was absolutely still. Mother Nature pulled out all the stops and treated us to a black sky filled with a spectacular multitude of shining stars. I crawled into the cockpit with only my headlamp for light, unzipped the canvas, began to crawl out and ZAP went the bug bites. Back to our stateroom to gaze up through the hatch! The next day, the welts were there, but only on my left hand and arm that Ihad stuck out of the canvas.

We took off the next morning bright and early, as we were excited to finally experience oyster heaven, Apalachicola. We were not disappointed. It is a quaint, rustic, seaside town with several interesting shops and restaurants. The best restaurant, Papa Joe's Oyster Bar, was right at our dock. The food was good and the oysters were the plumpest juiciest ones we have had.

Gary and I planned to stay two days in Apalachicola, but the weather decided that we should leave the next morning with Walt and Vickie. We had to cross thirty miles of open water, and the winds were predicted to increase steadily. It was a rough crossing but not unbearable. We arrived in Carrabelle with plenty of time to relax and head to "Old Salts Cafe" for more oysters. Vickie had grouper.

We spent a second day at the Moorings waiting for an opening at the marina that we planned to step the masts. Gary and I explored the accomodating town of Carrabelle. Vickie did not want to see any more slimy oysters being ingested, so instead I prepared chicken enchilada casserole.

Today we step the masts at Dockside Marina here in Carrabelle. I hope I have very little to report about that!

Wednesday, October 27: "Dangerous Deadlines!"

2010-10-28T07:36:00.001-07:00

We’ve learned from experience that while cruising, deadlines are dangerous. You set yourself up to make bad decisions based on the deadline instead of the more important issues…..like weather. In 2008, we made a bad call on the brutal North Atlantic because we wanted to get to Long Beach Island for Mom’s birthday. Last year, we rushed across Lake Michigan to get Nick James back to his Princess (and work) and dealt with terrible conditions. This year, we promised, NO deadlines! Except, Chas had to be in St. Louis by October 9. And Bob and Mary Jane and Brad and Chis had condos rented in Destin. Can we make it there by the end of October? Sure! Another deadline snuck out of nowhere and off we rushed down the Tenn-Tom Waterway. This year, though, everything went in our favor. The weather was absolutely gorgeous. We did not see a cloud or a drop of rain from Mackinaw City to Mobile Alabama. We did not munch on one single Triple Ginger Snap to deal with rough and rolly seas. It was warm and sunny and perfect cruising. Backtracking to the first lock on the Tenn-Tom, the Jamie Whitten was a drop of 84 feet. In a previous lock, Gary noticed someone had stuck an advertisement in the floating bollard. Since he had so much time on his hands in the Whitten, he went down below and grabbed a sharpie. I thought he was writing "TESSA was here", but instead he was being wonderfully romantic, writing “Gary loves Lori”. I love my Captain! That night we stayed at Midway Marina and enjoyed a relaxing evening on Taken Care of Business. I fried up some wonderful catfish with a side of home grown black eyed peas, compliments of Bill Magers. Delicious! Sunday we made it to Columbus Marina, where we were greeted by Jacob, who invited us all over "to his wooden houseboat across the dock" for a cocktail after dinner. He should have said "come over and see my classic Trumpe Yacht that looks like a magazine spread for lifestyles of the rich and famous." He has spent seven years restoring her, and Aurora is stunning. The next night was our Demopolis layover, where we met some great people on board a power yacht named Duet. Here is where Walt and Vickie departed with no ice on board, from my previous short update. From Demopolis, it is a long haul (217 miles) to Mobile, which requires anchoring out three nights in a row. The first night was uneventful. The second day, we needed to get through the Coffeeville Lock and make it to Three Rivers Lake, where we enjoyed our hurricane hole last year. Except our timing was a bit off. We first had to wait for a barge to pass our previous night’s anchorage so that we could pull out into the river without interruption. Next we had to wait at the lock for 45 minutes. Our window of daylight was severely compromised. The miles ticked by, the sunlight faded, and Gary called out how many minutes until sunset. We searched anxiously for a cut-off prior to Three Rivers that we KNEW was there somewhere….having seen other cruisers holed up there last year. We did not want to run down the river in the dark. Walt and Vickie stayed close behind, and I was sure they were cussing up a storm as Tessa led them into the river darkness. We both used our spotlights to point out big steel red and green buoys that could sink us if hit. Where was the darn cut-off? We had to have passed it, as the chart showed we were now close to Three Rivers Lake. Shortly, Gary advised that we were there, we should see the entry, but it was so dark that even the high powered spotlight wasn’t picking up any cut in the riverbank. Suddenly, I saw lights from boats at anchor, and screamed to Gary “There it is!” He cautiously steered to starboard and eased into the mouth of the cut, as Walt and Vickie followed. It was such a relief to drop the anchor and call it a night, although difficult to block out thoughts of what could have happened. The last anchorage on the river was another bit of a challenge. We attempted to raft off to Taken Care of Business , but the current fought us and we aborted the mission. We agreed it best to anchor separately, except Tessa’s anchor windlass moter disagreed. Our spirits sunk as we suspected another blown windlass motor, which we just paid $800.00 for in 2008. Gary muscled out the back-up Fortress, tossed it overboard, and collapsed in fatigue and frustration. As the sun set, we chatted with Walt and Vickie on the VHF, to compensate for our planned evening of dining and drinking together. Next morning, we departed at dawn and were on our way to Mobile Bay and Dog River Marina. It was a beautiful trip, sun sparkling off the water, and we were thrilled to see Captain Sid, the shrimper boat we made friends with last year, shrimping on Mobile Bay. The staff at Dog River were welcoming as we fueled up and pumped out. Duet was also there, and we all enjoyed a great dinner at the Mobile Yacht Club. The following day we moved next door to Turner Marine, where Gary and I spent a very enjoyable, economical week last fall. Boat chores had piled up aboard Tessa and Taken Care of Business. We briefly crossed paths as we worked, and stopped in the evenings to cook some great meals. Fresh flounder stuffed with freshly picked crabmeat, and grilled shrimp for night two. The weather was balmy and humid and the no-see-ums drove us all crazy. I layered bug spray constantly, and thankfully escaped with only a dozen bites. This morning, we headed south down Mobile Bay toward the FloriBama Intracoastal, with Taken Care of Business in the lead. Another brilliant sunny day, with brisk winds and agreeable seas. Both Walt and Vickie have exhibited a tendency to play chicken with barges. As a big one approached in the distance, we watched in amazement as Taken Care of Business’s silhouette lined up perfectly in it’s path, just like the closing scene in Captain Ron. The closer they got to each other, the harder we laughed…until the barge blew a loud one-whistle warning and Walt scooted out of his way. To hear what that Captain in the bridge was saying would be priceless! Later this morning, we saw our first dolphin after many months of missing them. It is hard to describe the feeling of finally seeing a dolphin after a long saltwater absence, but suffice to say we CHEERED! Tonight we are in a peaceful anchorage called the “Big Lagoon” where we enjoyed a great meal with Walt and Vickie. Tomorrow,off to Destin, to see our friends before they head north. So far, this does not appear to be yet another dangerous deadline….but nothing is for certain until the dock lines are securly tied at Harbor Walk Marina in Destin! And then we have to be in Carrabelle to pick up Bryan Diveto on November 6………

2010-10-20T08:42:00.000-07:00

This morning we left Demopolis for what everyone considers the last leg of the trip to the Gulf. There are no marinas until Mobile, so we have three nights of anchoring out ahead of us. Last year we recall many scenic peaceful spots with enough water for Tessa. This year the water is way down and the guys at Demopolis warned us that we have just a few choices to drop the hook. Walt and Vickie are following us. Even though they draw only 4 1/2 feet, they have expensive props that extend below that. All we have is a lead keel to worry about. I would prefer they went first, but they always get their way. Walt is the one who encouraged us to put an icemaker on board, but decided they didn't have enough room for theirs this trip. He just hailed us on the radio to advise that they left Demopolis without ice. If they hadn't just given us a bottle of bourbon, I would gouge the heck of of them at the anchorage tonight. FREE ICE TOMORROW! Today, five bucks a bag!

Thirteen Locks down, Nine to go!

2010-10-18T12:42:00.000-07:00

Saturday, October 16 This morning we departed the Tennessee River at Yellow Creek and began the trek down the Tennessee-Tombigbee Waterway. It has taken us a week to travel down the Mississippi, then up the Ohio, and the Tennessee River. Oh, what a glorious ride it has been! Tessa screamed down the Mighty Mississippi doing 12 knots, challenging Captain Gary to dodge river debris. We shot past the lock wall at the the Kaskaskia River where we spent two nights last year waiting out torrential rain. We anchored in the Little River Diversion Channel, close to “Taken Care of Business”, and Gary grilled some delicious duck breasts for dinner. Two boats came by to welcome us to Missouri with warm southern hospitality. Soon we were snuggled in our bunk, listening to the night sounds and the hum of tug motors pushing barges past our anchorage. The next day we exited the Mississippi and headed upriver on the Ohio River. It was a smooth trip with little current and we just kicked back and soaked up the warm sunshine all the way to the next anchorage before Lock 52. The following morning at dawn we were told to head to the lock immediately or risk not getting through the rest of the day. Both boats weighed anchor in a mad rush and hurried to the lock entrance. Five miles later, we were heading up the Tennessee River toward the next lock at the entrance to Kentucky Lake. Here we were greeted with really bad news. The wait to enter the lock was predicted to be two and a half hours! We passed the time circling while Taken Care of Business anchored and grilled burgers. Once that frustrating delay was over, we thoroughly enjoyed crossing Kentucky Lake. It was a beautiful Sunday afternoon with lots of sunshine and blue skies. We grinned from ear to ear as we broke out the bathing suits in place of the layers of foul weather gear we piled on during the last two trips south. Taken Care of Business crossed the Barkley Canal toward a marina they wanted to visit. We continued on to Kenlake State Park Marina for an overnight stop. As we approached the face dock, the people on their houseboats went inside instead of grabbing a dock line, which was a first in all of our travels. They appeared put out by our arrival, perhaps because we blocked their evening view. Whatever the reason, we just quietly got our dock lines in order and then took a walk before dinner. There was no socializing in our future that night. Pebble Isle Marina certainly made up for that the next night. Several guys ran toward the dock and grabbed for lines, introduced themselves, and invited us to the happy hour party that was already in progress. At least twenty chairs lined the dock, filled with jolly “loopers” all swapping stories and boat cards. We had a wonderful evening making new cruising friends. Since Clifton Marina was to be our next stop, we told everyone about the great time we had last year and encouraged them to stop there. Little did I know that I almost talked us right out of dock space! Instead of anchoring out the next night like they had planned, they all went to Clifton….and beat us there! Sonya was in a panic to fit us all in, so we suggested that Taken Care of Business raft off to Tessa. Our first order of business was to find Bill Magers and give him a big hug! Soon everyone was gathered together having drinks and grilled burgers. It was great to be back together with all of our Clifton friends, and our new cruising friends fit in perfectly. The next day we were looking forward to a lunch date with Bill. Bill Magers is the kind of guy who would give you the shirt off his back. But he didn’t stop there! He gave us two shirts! And food out of his freezer, beer out of his cooler, arrowheads from his collection, AND a Billy Bob beer couzie! The best gift of all was the memorable day we spent together, touring the Tennessee hills surrounding the river and hearing a funny or fascinating story around every turn. We returned to the marina just in time for happy hour. Sonya squeezed in a record breaking number of boats and still had time to prepare chicken & dumplings, white beans, cole slaw, and fried cornbread. Another wonderful evening in Clifton spent with good friends. Bill came by the following morning to deliver country ham biscuits and to see us off. As we sat in the cockpit having coffee, I had a bright idea. “Hey Bill, you should call your daughter and tell her to pick you up at Aqua Yacht Harbor and cruise down there with us. Y’anto?” Better yet, give me her number and I’ll call her! We hadn’t met Bridget yet, but I assumed she would have a sense of humor to match her father’s. So when she answered the phone, I said “If you ever want to see your Daddy again, show up at Aqua Yacht Harbor tonight with $50,000 or the deed to your riverfront property.” After a stunned silence she started laughing and later told us her first thought was “What is he up to now?” We informed everyone at the marina that we were kidnapping Bill, he offered the keys to his truck to fellow cruisers who were staying another day, and off we went down the river. We so enjoyed having our own personal tour guide on board. Bill grew up on the river and had a story to tell at every bend. It was another wonderful, memorable day….until we arrived at the Pickwick Lock and were advised of a 2 ½ to 3 hour delay. Which meant that we would probably not lock through until after dark, which meant that we would have to cross Pickwick Lake to Aqua in the dark. Gary claims that the Garmin chart plotter paid for itself that night, as he followed our track from last year all the way across the dark lake and right to the marina without bumping into anything. Bill left us with some delicious homemade Brunswick Stew and headed for the hills, while we enjoyed a well deserved cocktail before calling it a night. The next day Gary, Walt, Vickie, Fred and I met Bill and Bridget at the well known “Hagy’s Catfish Hotel” for lunch. Most of us enjoyed all-u-can-eat catfish and coleslaw. Yummmm! Hagy’s is located in Shiloh National Park, the site of a bloody Civil War battle. After lunch we followed Bill around to some of the popular spots. Then Bill turned right and we were supposed to turn left to exit the park. Somehow, we got so turned around that we went in circles and ended up right back where we started. Vickie took control, grabbed the map, and finally got us back to the main road. We have all navigated boats from Lake Erie to Mississippi, and we had trouble finding our way out of a park. Funny! This morning as we enter the Tenn-Tom, we are a little sad to close the chapter on the river trip so far. It has truly been a wonderful experience. And we already miss Bill Magers! Such is the cruising life. You leave behind so many good friends and memories, but there is always another adventure awaiting with each new day.

Clifton, TN - The memories are still vivid...-ish

2010-10-12T17:53:00.000-07:00

Click HERE to see Our Previous Visit to Clifton TN...

October 8th, 2010: "Empty Nesting"

2010-10-10T04:51:00.000-07:00

We spent last night at the legendary Hoppies Marina, south of St. Louis. Chas picked a 16 oz rib eye for his last supper. We dined on Taken Care of Business and celebrated the arrival of their crewman Fred, while Gary and I secretly mourned the departure of our crewman. I offered a warm chocolate chip cookie to the crew of a big fancy powerboat at the dock. The captain asked in amazement "You cooked those on board a sailboat?" As though us cheap sailors wouldn't even spring for an oven on board! I wanted to snatch the cookies out of their greedy little fingers and tell them to go suck up some Dom Perignon on their upper deck. The alarm went off at 5:00 a.m. this morning, a cruel reminder that it was time for Chas to leave. We said our tearful goodbyes and quietly walked back to a lonely Tessa. She truly feels empty without Chas' presence. He wakes up smiling, goes to bed smiling, and never stops smiling in between. He belongs on Tessa, and loves her and his Dad as much as I do. This is definitely going to take some getting used to after being together for over three weeks, 24/7. We tossed off the dock lines at dawn in order to make 100 statute miles downriver. The current is pushing Tessa along at 12 knots. Now that Chas is gone, I realize I can listen to Glen Beck without a battle, but it does not feel victorious. I no longer need to look over my shoulder while bringing in the bumpers and dock lines. There is no one accidentally-on-purpose threatening to push me overboard. This is boring! I will get the foul weather gear ready just in case Chas really did take the good weather with him. It is sunny and in the high 70's today....but he didn't predict the weather to change until tomorrow. I will try to remember to water my herbs, the way Chas did every day with tender loving care. Gary will go back to being unquestionably correct in everything he says and does on board, instead of being challenged daily by his extemely intelligent and talented son. And hopefully, sooner than later, Captain and I will stop missing Chas and just focus on the happy memories the three of us just made together!

Monday, October 4: Contrasts

2010-10-04T08:47:00.001-07:00

We awoke in Peoria to blue skies, bright sun, and a soft breeze. Quite a contrast to last year, where we woke to below freezing temps, bitter winds, and dock lines frozen to the deck in chunks of ice. Most of the trip this year has contrasted significantly to last years experiences. Most good, some not so good. After we waited out the high winds in Mackinaw City until Sunday, September 27, the weather window dramitically improved. Gary and I were both dreading the trip down and across Lake Michigan, based on the horrible memories of last fall. This trip was a piece of cake! Sunshine during the days, moonlite nights, and calm seas. The Tessa crew and the Taken Care of Business crew agreed to keep going for 48 hours, all the way to Hammond Indiana, as long as Mother Nature was cooperating. We arranged to unstep the masts on Wednesday at Crowleys Boat Yard on the Cal-Sag Canal. Brother Bill, the great guy we became friends with on the river system last year, lives in Hammond. He was kind enough to run me all over town doing errands and provisioning, while the yard crew and Gary and Chas did the hard physical labor. Bill and I returned shortly after the work was finished. I love it when a plan comes together like that! Last year, we couldn't pile on enough clothes to stay warm. This year, we start off with jeans and a sweatshirt early in the morning. By noon, we've pealed those off and changed into shorts and t-shirts. Last year, Nick James and Don Dunn were so polite and appreciative of my cooking that I was constantly showered with compliments and praise. This year, I still receive thanks and praise, but not without impatient demands. One of the first mornings crossing Lake Michigan, I was exclaiming to Gary that we couldn't have asked for more perfect weather. Chas emerges from his stateroom and interrupts "What would be perfect is if you had my breakfast ready!" Or another morning, my "Good morning Chas!" was answered with "Feed me woman!" Once the breakfast dishes are washed and put away, the questions start. "What's for lunch?" "When is dinner?" "Is there any iced tea ready?" "Do we get chocolate chip cookies today?" And on it goes, day after day...... Last year when we stopped in Joliet, we utilized the restrooms in Harrah's casino like homeless people, trying to escape the elements and warm up. This year, our friends Jim and Jan Herrick joined us for dinner and gambling in the casino, just like regular tourists. Since it was so late in the season last fall, we had the Joliet dock all to ourselves. This year there were several other big power boats tied up in front of us. So Captain and I devised a scheme to quietly sneak away at dawn and beat them all to the first lock. This would give us enough of a lead to get a space for the night at the free city dock in Ottawa, which can accommodate two large boats. As a last resort, Walt and Vickie could raft off to us for the night. To our disappointment and much frustration, our timing was off. The lock was backed up with northbound barges, and a southbound barge was already waiting in front of us. Three and a half hours later, we were still not locked through. We watched angrily as all the big power boats (with well rested crews that got to sleep THREE MORE HOURS than we did) came into view behind us, just as the lock was ready to open. ARRRRRRRRGH!!! The second lock of the day was almost as frustrating. Walt and Vickie arrived first and dropped anchor when the lock master advised an hour and a half wait. We just circled around, waiting for the green light. Again, here comes the last minute arrival of the big power boats, zipping past both of us to be first in the lock. Everyone positioned like the start of a race, glaring at each other. GRRRRRRRRRR! We didn't remember having issues like that until Demopolis last year, where everyone was backed up due to the arrival of Hurricane Ida. Luckily, the big boys with the big boats have big money and were spending the night in a nice marina. They were not the least bit concerned about the freebie in Ottawa, so our two boats had no problem with space that evening. Once secured at the dock, we witnessed an Asian Carp frenzy. They were excited by the vibration of a speed boat, and came shooting up out of the water nearby. We weren't fast enough to capture it on film, but one poor guy landed on the dock and flopped around long enough for us to snap some pictures. Once again this year, Dave and Becky,the friendly and accommodating Ottawa Ambassadors, joined us for an interesting visit. The next morning, we looked forward to visiting the nice folks at Herman's Liquor Store. Then we were off to Henry Harbor. We like this stop because they have a nice bar and cute little town. Chas had such a good time at the nice bar that he didn't see much of the cute little town the next morning before we had to depart for Peoria. Peoria is a great river city with lots to offer, including Chas and Walt's favorite...Hooters. We had a fun evening and were happy that (the amazing) Amanda still works there. Not for long, though, as she is leaving to begin a nursing career. Hmmmmm...Hooters waitress to taking care of old and/or sick people. Not much of a stretch if you really think about it.... Tonight we hope to find a nice anchorage between Peoria and Grafton. The river level is down almost two feet, which is a concern for anchoring. Thankfully, unlike last year, the nice weather seems to holding out. Chas claims he will take it with him on Friday when he departs from St. Louis. It will be doom and gloom after that. Whether that happens or not, it truly will be gloomy without him and we are going to miss him terribly. He has added so much to this trip, not to mention how hard he has worked ON HIS VACATION!! He has reminded me of this dozens of times throughout each and every day, in between harassing me, changing my Talk Radio to the Blue Collar Comedy station, demanding more to eat, and attempting several times to push me overboard. Life as we have known it since Chas' arrival September 13th will be over on Friday. And in spite of all the harassment, I will be the first to admit that the time went by way too fast!

Henry today. Peoria tomorrow...

2010-10-03T09:30:00.000-07:00

2010-09-29T01:23:00.000-07:00

OH FUDGE, WE'RE STUCK IN MACKINAW CITY!

2010-09-24T18:23:00.000-07:00

Since our departure a week ago last Friday, the trip has been pretty much uneventful. When cruising, uneventful is a GOOD thing. Our first stop was Port Huron on Saturday afternoon, where we had a great time with Walt, Vicky, and crewman Dave Underwood, who are buddy boating with us on their yacht "Taken Care of Business". Vicky made lasagna, served on real china, which was a special treat. Although I have no inclination to run out and purchase any. While underway, we have dented a metal frying pan. China would not make it through the first big swell. Next stop was Rogers City on Monday, where we were weathered in the next day. A big Hatteras pulled in after dealing with the big winds and high seas, and we watched them carry out broken pieces and parts of the dashboard and interior. Glad we stayed put. Monday night Gary, Chas, and Dave bowled at our favorite Rogers City bowling alley. They performed so poorly that the desk guy comped their games. Tuesday night, we all went for pizza and bowling, but it was league night with no lanes open. Wednesday we did a long day run from Rogers City to Mackinaw City. We've been here since then, waiting out the rough weather. Yesterday 30 knot winds and nine foot waves were forecast. Today is ten to fifteen foot waves and 50 knot gale force winds. We are occupying our time doing boat chores, watching movies, shopping for the best fudge deals, and drinking PBR's at the famous Keyhole Bar. Captain and I are very frustrated that we have this big, able-bodied, experienced crew member on board, one that we hoped would get us all the way through mast unstepping and into the river system, who is instead vegging out on the couch watching Walker Texas Ranger episodes. Such a waste! We really, really want to get underway again. But I must admit this is kinda fun......in a lazy good for nothing way.

2010-09-22T14:07:00.000-07:00

We are Outta' Here...

2010-09-18T03:44:00.000-07:00

Friday morning at dawn we woke up in our comfy bed in our comfy condo and I wondered if we were REALLY ready for another departure. It would be so easy to stay. It is so much work to go. Gary calls it the "Easy Chair Syndrome." Some days that easy chair beckons so strongly to us that we are tempted to just plop down and stay there for the winter. But not yet!!! For the third year in a row, Bryan DiVeto tossed off our dock lines and bid us bon voyage. Rich McCleary and Captain Kirk were there to send us off. Got under the 5:30 bridge and away we went toward the Detroit River. We plan to do an over-nighter and meet up with Walt & Vicky and David Underwood, our good friends from Clinton Reef Club, cruising on their yacht "Takin Care of Business". They also departed today and plan to "buddy boat" with us all the way to Fort Myers. We will all follow the same route we took last season, on the river system south toward Mobile. Preparing for departure was as hectic as usual. Chas arrived this past Monday morning to accompany us as far as we can get before his leave is up on October 11. He and Gary worked frantically to complete all the boat chores that had to see closure before we left. Chas worked so hard that I now have a new nickname for him. SON SLAVE. We would not have gotten out of Port Clinton today without his help.

I spent the last couple of days concluding the summer chapter of our lives in Port Clinton and Put-in-Bay, and planning and provisioning for Season Three of Adventures of Tessa. D-day always comes upon us too fast, and from the looks of Tessa down below, I am NOT getting any better at an organized departure. No worries, there will be plenty of time to stow everything during the next 24 hours. Weather is expected to be calm. Even though we are motoring, it feels great to be out here with Jimmy Buffet playing and Lake Erie cooperating with Tessa beautifully. Lamb chops are marinating. The three of us are taking deep, relaxing breaths. The hard part is over, we are away from the dock and on our way. The new canvas enclosure and crystal clear strataglass is AMAZING. It is like we are looking out a big picture window with fantastic visability. (THANKS to Rick and Sue and Rick's Mobile Marine Canvas!) Much more to come........

The Front Porch

2010-09-17T18:23:00.000-07:00

Mom waved good-bye from the front porch this morning with her usual bright smile. After a long weekend of her 83rd pre-birthday celebration, we hugged each other extra hard. It would be our last hug until December, when Gary and I come home for Christmas after our next trip south. I pulled out of the driveway and beeped and waved excessively until she was out of sight. How many times has every member of our family done the same silly routine? It doesn’t matter who is leaving, or how long they will be gone. Rain or shine, wind, sleet, or snow. Everyone who is not leaving stands on the front porch and waves. The person or persons leaving beeps and waves all the way down Lamme Road. It’s silly and corny. It’s just what we do. 5020 Lamme Road. The three of us had to memorize that address before the start of first grade. So many kids would end up memorizing many more street addresses as their families changed or relocated, but our family address has remained the same for almost sixty years since Mom and Dad moved to Dayton. If you were to flip through the pages of our family album of life on Lamme Road, the majority of our pictures were taken on the front porch. We posed on the front steps for first communions, birthdays, and every holiday. At the beginning of each summer, young Cindy, David, and I had to scrub the porch down and hose it all off in preparation of Mom and Dad’s seasonal entertainment. We were also assigned the horrendous task of sanding and painting the front porch metal latticework glider and chairs, which today could easily be considered child abuse. How could any one child be expected to paint across those tiny little square holes without drip marks? Our work was not complete until the picnic table was sanded and varnished. And don’t forget to re-web the folding chairs. Looking toward the future, several marital disputes were based on cutting and laying indoor/outdoor carpet on the same front porch and stairs. Speaking of child abuse, how about being forced to pick row after row of home grown green beans in the hot summer sun. This was supposed to be our SUMMER VACATION, not prison camp. Next, we had to sit on the front porch and snap basket after basket of said disgusting green beans. Sure, it sounds all Norman Rockwelly, until you grab a furry squishy smelly yellow green bean worm between your fingers. All that torture for a pot of Mom’s day-long steeped ham, beans, and potatoes. I feigned disgust at that dish during my teenage years, but can still remember the delightfully sinful taste of it all smashed together with a few big pats of butter floating over the entire mess. Home grown health food! Dad prided himself on his locally famous garden, and since there were no child labor laws enforced in our neighborhood, we were expected to tend to the driveway produce store during the summer months. Each tomato had to be wiped clean and polished to perfection before being placed in neat rows along the picnic table. (We ate only the blemished ones.) Our family baby scale was used to weigh the customer’s selection, and at the end of the day the money collected was hidden in a big brown beer mug in the china closet. No robber would ever think to look there! Sadly, there were real neighborhood thieves. Whenever we went away, Dad would place a sign on the picnic table stating “Help yourself and put money in mailbox on front porch.” This worked for years, until one day we came home to a sold-out empty picnic table….and an equally empty mailbox. We felt so betrayed after all the years of neighborhood honesty. Dad’s garden drew visitors from near and far. His Pittsburgh relatives and Detroit cousins were his biggest fans. They would pull into the driveway after a long road trip, and walk straight to the garden with salt shaker in hand, to sample the vine ripened tomatoes. Mom would prepare plenty of snacks and everyone would congregate on the front porch for cold drinks and lots of food and laughter. When we were younger, Mom entertained the three of us playing car games from the front porch. We each had to pick a car color, and for a specific amount of time we kept score as each car went past on Lamme Road. As we grew older, our porch games got a bit more “mature”. I shared my first kiss on the glider on the front porch. When one kiss led to too many others, Mom or Dad would flick the porch light on and off in a warning gesture, and suitors would tend to make a quick getaway. Today, on hot summer nights, I still recall that romantic, sweet smell of the Moraine Locust trees surrounding our house, accompanied by the drone of the locust and crickets. All three of us posed for Prom and Homecoming photos on the front porch. Graduation announcements, bridal showers, and wedding invitations were addressed on TV trays on the front porch. Firewood was stacked on the front porch to last through the long cold winter months. We would, not voluntarily, take turns going out to replenish the wood basket. Once, after an important Pittsburgh Steelers loss, I caught teenage brother David crying in frustration on the front porch…and announced it to anyone within earshot. I was absolutely giddy with sibling revenge for all the times he made me cry. How cruel he was as he and his friends sent my Michael Jackson 45s sailing from the front porch across Lamme Road like Frisbees! During high school, the front porch was a very popular impromptu hang out. We never admitted to a premeditated party, but the parents would leave for a night out, and Dad was convinced that we threw our garden hose across Lamme Road so that friends felt the bump and knew the coast was clear to congregate on the porch. Cars lined our driveway, the neighbor’s driveway, and eventually our front yard. Parties ensued and the following mornings excuses of innocence prevailed. Seriously, we DID NOT plan the party! In my early twenties, the front porch was where I went for solace after I found a “suspicious lump.” Mom and I sat on the front porch while she held my hand and calmed my fears. Even as adults, Cindy, David, and I and all of our friends continued to enjoy spending time on the porch with Mom and Dad. We would cram in as many folding chairs as possible, fill in any gap with tv trays covered with snacks, and talk and laugh way into the night. When Gary and I met, he quickly and naturally became part of our family. It was not uncommon for me to call him, wondering why he wasn’t home after a long day at work. His excuse? “I’m sitting on the front porch with your Mom and Dad having a Manhattan.” What a beautiful, wonderful, loving testament of his love for my parents, not to mention a perfect alibi for getting home late from work! The front porch is where Mom and Dad spent most of their quiet relaxing time, later in their years. It is where we delivered Mom’s 75 roses on her 75th birthday. It is where the events of our lives unfolded, winter spring summer and fall. This past Sunday night, Mom and Cindy and I sat on the front porch like so many countless times before. We watched the world go by, reminisced about everyone that sat here with us in the past, laughed, and cherished each sweet and special memory. As I sadly continued to beep and wave goodbye to Mom this morning, I drew strength from that familiar, warm, comfortable, “front porch” feeling. Knowing that, no matter what this life holds for us, we will all stay together forever, gliding in the glider, posing for a family photo, holding a tomato and a salt shaker, snapping a bean, or toasting with a Manhattan. We will never stop excessively beeping and waving and loving each other. It’s just what we do. Happy Birthday Mom! We love you!

The Adventures of Tessa begin soon...

2010-09-07T11:31:00.000-07:00

Revised E.D.D. (Estimated Date of Departure) update:

9/20ish/10.

First Day Off

2010-06-14T08:11:00.000-07:00

Today is the first day both of us has been off work together since we arrived back to Port Clinton in May! Since that time our routine, if you can even call it a routine, has been hectic. We get up by 7:00, shower and head to work. Gary goes either to West Marine or Put-in-Bay to work at the Skyway. I jump on the Jet Express and head for the Put-in-Bay WInery. Sometimes we even get to ride the Jet together, which is a treat. In the evenings we meet somewhere for a quick bite to eat, Gary hands over his paychecks and tips, I combine them with mine, toss them on the counter, and we flop into a hot sticky bunk on board Tessa. The tips have piled up since we have no time to spend them! We will need all the cash we can accumulate to pay for our new cockpit enclosure, dodger, and bimini top. Tessa is still on-the-hard, waiting impatiently for us to complete her summer makeover and get her back afloat. We may launch this afternoon if the last minute projects come together. If not, we will launch tomorrow for sure. All three of us are very anxious to be back on the water again. Hope to be able to do more detailed updates when the chaos is over and order is restored on board!

Erie Canal

2010-05-16T10:07:00.000-07:00

THE BROTHERS JORDAN

2010-05-13T15:25:00.000-07:00

THE BROTHERS JORDAN It’s early morning. Our boat is charging through the Atlantic waves, sails trimmed to perfection. We’re making good time, averaging 8 to 9 knots. The journey from St. Augustine to New York seems to be successfully underway. Then I look aft. A man is holding the carcass of a tuna in his hands, munching along it’s backbone as though it were an ear of corn. He lifts his head and smiles at me as blood trickles down his chin. OMG, I wonder as I look on in horror. What is in store for us for the next nine days at sea with the Brothers Jordan? Jim is amused by my reaction, and enjoys informing me that Brother Bill also likes to eat eyes, hearts, and various other organs. I gasp and go down below to gag in private. Using perch eyes as bait when you run out of minnows is one thing, but eating fish eyeballs crosses some sort of line, doesn’t it? I need to focus on the bright side. We have two able bodied, experienced sailors to crew with us to New York. We have a freshly caught tuna. Might as well move beyond the blood and guts and start cooking. We dined on Tuna Eggs Benedict, Tuna Ceviche, Sesame Seared Tuna, and Tuna Mediterranean Style. As the winds increased to 30 knot gusts and the waves built to 10 to 15 feet, the brothers pulled in and filleted three more nice tuna. The aft deck was a blood bath, the guys looked like deranged murderers splattered with tuna DNA, and their grins were from ear to ear. Captain Gary needed a power nap late that afternoon, so Jim took over the helm. He opted to hand steer, as the autopilot could not react to the huge swells. I wasn’t reacting all that well to them either. I purposely avoided looking out the ports while I remained down below trying to read. Jim and Bill thought they could tease me into a better mood, until I shouted up through the companionway to Jim “STOP TALKING TO ME! FOCUS ON STEERING!” They actually seemed to be enjoying themselves in these conditions. That night, about thirty miles out, a cute little bird joined us on board. We marveled at how this teeny little guy we nicknamed Woodstock made it out that far. Apparently, he wanted to take a nap because he kept fluttering around down below. We tried shooing him away numerous times. Once he even rode back up into the cockpit on Gary’s head. He finally ran out of steam and fell to the deck. Jim tenderly picked him up in a towel and held him until he died. It was sad. A while later, along came another bird. We considered that Woodstock I died due to lack of food and water during his long journey, so we tried to feed Woodstock II some bread soaked in water. He wasn’t interested in anything but flying down below until he calmed down and sat on my hand. I was in an uncomfortable position, so I shifted him to the corner of the cockpit and draped a towel around him. He didn’t make it through the night. The next morning, I was ready for a break from the waves and eager to head into Southport NC. Gary was debating whether to continue on to Beaufort. Bill witnessed our exchange of opinions. (AKA fight) After that, Gary and I were down below trying to nap amidst the chaos of the wave action. One big swell sent our conch shell off the shelf and SMACK into Gary’s forehead, slicing open a gash above his eyebrow. I applied ice, then a bandage. When my patient emerged from our stateroom, Bill acknowledged the bloody band-aid by commenting “So, I guess we’re going to Southport!” Even though the joke was on me, I have to admit that was funny stuff! Especially since we WERE going to Southport. Docking was a challenge in the dark with opposing winds and currents. Tessa, not Captain Gary, decided she would back into the slip next to the fixed dock at The Provision Company. Gary suggested we simply pull her the twenty feet across the well to the floating dock. For at least an hour, all four of us had a line in our hands and pulled with all of our might while Tessa refused to budge. It was like she was saying “I’m tired, I’ve had enough, just leave me be!” Eventually we muscled her over, secured her, and knocked back a cocktail before bed. 30 to 35 knot winds were forecast to blow until Wednesday. We were officially weathered in at Southport. It was a nice opportunity to relax and become more acquainted with Brother Bill after the two challenging days at sea. Chas drove down from Fayetteville to hang out with us Monday and Tuesday, and we used his wheels to provision at Wal-Mart. Monday evening, we went to our favorite Southport restaurant, Mr. P’s. They serve the most wonderful Oysters Rockefeller, and the appetizer special was a delectable soft shell crab. Later that evening I prepared a second round of sesame seared tuna which Chas devoured. During both days, The Brothers Jordan’s assignment was to frequent the Provision Company for food and drink as often as possible. This in exchange for our complimentary dockage. We didn’t have to twist their arms to fulfill these obligations, especially since they enjoyed the antics of the friendly bar staff (especially Sheri and Laurie). Jim didn’t tell us that Bill was a hunter and gatherer along with his strange culinary tastes. Wednesday morning a Round House bucket filled with fresh clams appeared on board. Bill had dug them up during low tide. Jim could hardly wait for us to get underway and start grilling clams on the aft deck. They were fantastic! A good weather window opened Wednesday morning and remained for the rest of the trip from Southport to New York. The guys would have preferred more wind in order to sail instead of motor-sail, but it was just fine with me to calmly make way at six knots. We were cruising along Virginia approaching Maryland just before dawn Thursday when my cold and weary Captain came down below for a nap. I snuggled against him, trying to thaw him out, and he immediately fell sound asleep. Minutes later, through our closed hatch, and over the drone of the Perkins, I ever so faintly heard the now familiar zzzzzzzzzing of the reel. FISH ON! I jumped up onto our bunk, threw the hatch open, and called to the brothers. “Check the rod, I think we have a fish on!” Bill reeled in a big Bluefish while I apologized to Gary for scaring the heck out of him. As the day progressed, the brothers reeled and reeled, and the filet knife was flying. Soon their cooler was filled with eight Blues, both were covered with fish slime, and the two of them (and Tessa) smelled like one big smelly fish. The rod zinged again and I elbowed them out of the way to reel one in myself. Bill was on the aft deck fingering through a pile of fish innards. “Bill” I warned “I swear to God, if you put that in your mouth I will puke on you right now and I am NOT kidding!” He laughed but did resist the temptation. Each afternoon, Jim would pop open a bottle of wine and serenade us with his guitar. We were about as relaxed as we’ve ever been on the mighty Atlantic. The Bluefish tasted wonderful blackened and poached. The conclusion of the ocean voyage was near, and the Statue of Liberty would soon be greeting us in New York. We docked at Liberty Landing Marina Saturday night, and celebrated with “Dark & Stormy” cocktails, Roast Duck, and fine wine. A perfect ending to a very successful journey. The brothers wanted to turn in early in anticipation of a long drive home Sunday, and all four of us looked forward to the first uninterrupted night’s sleep since Southport. Sunday morning, as we waved farewell to The Brothers Jordan, we were hoping that the trip was memorable and gave them an opportunity to do some brotherly male bonding. I think it worked for Jim. For example, one day Bill was face down, sound asleep on his bunk, with his little yellow reading glasses still perched on his nose. I commented to Jim that he looked cute. Jim smiled for a moment, then said tenderly “Hey! Let’s put a couple of dead fish next to him so when he wakes up he’ll be sleepin with the fishes!” You could just feel the love!

Lock 17 of the Erie Canal

2010-05-10T07:27:00.000-07:00

Went through Lock 17 in the Erie Canal. Here is a video of the 40.5 foot rise and filling with over 5,000,000 gallons of water. This is the highest rise lock on the Erie Canal.

OBX

2010-04-29T07:38:00.000-07:00

At 10:40 am April 29th, we are 15 miles East of the Outer Banks. Winds are calm and we are under iron sail. Should be in NYC by Sunday for the Jordan Boys to return home.

South Port, North Carolina

2010-04-25T20:21:00.000-07:00

We be in Southport, North Carolina now Baby. Tessa be bookin'.

Quick Update

2010-04-21T13:46:00.001-07:00

After a nice reunion at Vero Beach with our friends Tom and Lynette on Por Fin, we turned in early in preparation of the trip to St. Augustine Tuesday morning. We were warned, yet still unprepared for the what was to come that night. Vero Beach is a wonderful place with one exception. NO-SEEUMS! Other cruisers carry separate, very fine screens specifically to protect from no-seeums at Vero Beach. Last fall, I got about a dozen bites, but we remember now tha we had all the hatches closed due to cold weather. Monday night, it was hot and humid. I had been alternating skin-so-soft and "Off" all day in order to avoid any chance at bites. We had happy hour on Tessa with Por Fin and some new cruisers who have a Gulfstar 44, and as soon as the sun began to set, I locked myself down below. However, we did have hatches open with our normal screens up for air circulation. The biting rat-bastards woke us both in the middle of the night. "GO SPRAY YOURSELF DOWN AND CLIMB BACK UNDER THE SHEETS FAST!" Gary urged. I quickly closed the hatches and doused myself with Cutter 50% Deet. The light in our stateroom revealed hundreds of them covering the headliner. My worst nightmare! I pulled the sheet up over my head and prayed maybe they weren't the no-seeums that I am so allergic to. Maybe they are some other kind of insect. Maybe...... The next morning, the bumps were already forming into blisters. By afternoon, I was covered with countless bites literally from head (scalp) to toe.I dreaded what was in store for me for the next four days. I know the cycle all to well. It takes a half a day before all the the blisters appear. The next forty eight hours are pure hell. They itch horribly and burn and hurt all at the same time, and are especially aggravated by heat or sun. As my body reacts to fight the poisons, I experience alternating chills and feverish symptoms and nausea. I am absolutely miserable. Poor Gary feels my pain yet knows there is nothing he can do to help. I've tried everything that every pharmacist recommends with no relief. I've done research on internet sites, where the best advise is simply to avoid areas where they are. No magic remedies. The first no-seeum attack a few years ago, I sought medical care and was prescribed steroids. We tossed the pills aside after we read the side affects and decided I was better off just suffering through the discomfort. Yesterday afternoon, Gary suggested that fishing might keep my mind off the discomfort. "Big Chuck" had the Hoo Lili lure, the rod Cuzzin Debbie and Mike donated to Tessa had a balleyhoo lure. No hits before dark, but as I reeled in Mike's rod, a big fish hit the balleyhoo, broke the water, did a back flip, and bit off the lower half of the lure.....right below the hook! Gary was right! I didn't itch for the entire sixty seconds it took to miss this fish! Now, we are at a dock in St. Augustine, hatches closed tight and air conditioning running to sooth the burning and itching. The dockmaster confirmed that they do have no-seeums here....but only of the wind stops blowing. I may just have to be content experiencing St. Augustine by reading my Waterway Guide from our bunk. Life is still good, this is just a bump (pardon the pun) in the road.

We're Having Fish Tonight!!!

2010-04-19T14:16:00.000-07:00

Ahoy fellow fishermen and women! Yesterday I caught the first deep sea fish to be brought successfully on board and onto the fillet board. Today I prepared a Tahitian style ceviche that we had numerous times on our honeymoon in Tahiti. Raw tuna marinated in lime juice, then mixed with diced tomatoes, cucumbers, onion, covered with coconut milk. Served with crusty french bread for sopping up the sauce. We are definitely livin the dream! At Vero Beach, tomorrow heading north back out on the Atlantic up to Saint Augustine. There we will rent a car and drive back down to West Palm to pick up crew. Better to have Tessa as far north as possible to continue toward NY with crew. Love to all, Lori

Tessa Update from Marathon

2010-04-16T07:10:00.000-07:00

We are still in Marathon waiting for these ferocious 25-30 knot winds to subside. As the saying goes "Marathon is a nice place to visit but we wouldn't want to live here!" Tomorrow looks favorable for a first light departure, arriving in Stuart Sunday afternoon if all goes well. Our friend Jage lives there, and she has kindly offered her car to pick up Myassis Dragon and his brother in West Palm on Friday the 23rd. We have even discussed blowing by Stuart if the weather window is comfortable early this coming week and getting as far north as Fernandina Beach, then renting a car and driving down to pick the crew up. The days of favorable conditions, we are learning, are few and far between! We have been following our "new best friends" Jon and Shawna on their beautiful Formosa 50 all the way from the Dry Tortugas. They are our new best friends for a number of reasons. First because they are absolutely wonderful people with very similar tastes in fun, food, and wine. Secondly (but more importantly I'm thinkin to Captain Gary) is the fact that they draw 6 1/2 feet, which is a lovely 6 inches more than we draw!!!! Every time we weigh anchor, we do the polite thing and insist that they go ahead of us. While weathered in, we have made the best of it by eating lots of sushi, stone crab claws, and key lime pie, accompanied by some fine wines and dark chocolates. How good is this??? Our best to everyone following the adventure, Lori & Captain Gary

Runnin' to Marathon

2010-04-10T09:00:00.001-07:00

We are in the Keys and have cellphone service. Will be in Marathon tonight.

Dry Tortuga Martini

2010-04-09T08:15:00.000-07:00

Gary, Lori and Tessa departed Ft. Meyers Beach on April 4th and headed to the Dry Tortugas. Lori borrowed a Satellite phone and called her sister Cindy to let them know they had made it safely. The plan is for them to be in Marathon this weekend.

Tracy & Diane

2010-03-15T12:31:00.001-07:00

I stepped out on deck this morning to a glorious blue sky, warm sun, and a gentle breeze….for the second day in a row! But instead of jumping for joy and screaming HALLELUJAH, I stared at an empty mooring ball and shed a few tears. Tracy, Diane, and FAITH were gone. We had a bon voyage dinner on board TESSA last night. When I went back down below this morning, I found Diane’s lovely goodbye note, appropriately written on the lyrics to our favorite song. Next I saw the weekly Thursday night pizza party invitation that Trace left me, handing over the baton as boater’s social director. Gary came out of our stateroom and looked at my tears with concern. “I miss them already” I explained. He just smiled. Shortly after we met Trace and Diane last December, we ran into them in the Matanzas parking lot. Trace was happily unloading some great bargain wine he had found. Not just a bottle or two, but at least a dozen 1.5 liter bottles. “We’re going to get along great!” I announced. And so our friendship began. We learned that we have an amazing amount of interests in common. Sailing, naturally, but also good books, funny movies, good food, cheap wine, and the pursuit of the cheapest happy hour. Diane and I share the same hometown. Most importantly we all share a love of adventure and laughter. A lot of the laughter caused by Trace ripping on me at any opportunity, at which he became very good. Recently I asked Trace if we knew the new mooring ball arrival, a boat named BULLSHIP. “Yeeeahh, I’d expect you know them, you’ve a lot in common with their boat!” he replied and then couldn’t resist complimenting himself on his insult. Even though I am usually the brunt of his cutting Brit wit, I think I enjoy it the most. Trace and Diane are avid cyclists, and met during a cycle trip through Thailand. “Yeeeahh, I fancy that!” he muttered when he first laid eyes on her. He was on his way home to England, and he inquired where Diane was heading. Vietnam was her next destination. “That’s funny! That’s where I’m going!” he lied. Off they went, and have continued on their journeys together for sixteen years. They’ve cycled all over the world, and spend part of the year living on their river boat on the Thames. Diane is a lockmaster there. Trace runs a business finishing fine furniture and antiques. Winters they enjoy here in the states spending some time in Dayton with Diane’s family, then cruising on their sailboat “Faith”. Another commonality we share is the driving need to socialize. It didn’t take long before Trace began coordinating social events for the Matanzas Pass boating community, and bartering with the local merchants for volume discounts. Gary and I volunteered to co-hosts these events, since Diane was busy running Matanzas Inn front desk five days a week. Our first event was a New Years Eve oyster party, which Trace dubbed a “Slurp-n-Burp”. About twenty of us slurped over 240 oysters. We were in mollusk heaven! The next event was a grilled Shrimp fest, which was such a success we were asked to host a few more. It was at one of these parties that we got into a bit of trouble. Diane had printed off the lyrics to “Don’t Forget Your Old Shipmates” and after a few toddies, everyone felt inclined to gather round and have a boisterous sing-along. A little too boisterous, we were told the next day by Matanzas management. Even though we were properly chastised, it didn’t diminish the gleeful camaraderie we felt that night, a memory not to be forgotten by any of our merry band of boaters. Who can forget the Thursday night pizza parties at the best Fort Myers pizzeria, Surf Pie? Trace negotiated with the owners Tony and Lori. Or I should say beat Tony up for an incredible price of $5.00 per person for all-you-can-eat eat pizza. Trace has to nickname everything, and this became referred to as “Piranha Pizza Night”, appropriately so after witnessing the speed at which boaters can consume mass quantities of pizza just to be sure they get their money’s worth. Trace doesn’t admit to regularly attending happy hour. It’s called “going for a sherbet”, which does in fact sound more innocent when your wife is at work while you are at Doc Fords with a $1 Yuengling draft. We shared many a sherbet together. One evening, the boys had a few too many sherbets and both ended up in the drink. Once we knew no one was injured, and I knew Gary’s new cell phone was safe, Diane and I could only laugh as we helped dry them off. We cooked the most fantastic meals together. The four of us love bold, spicy, adventurous recipes, and we took turns trying to outdo each other’s culinary skills. The best type of competition! There are no losers when you are eating good food with good friends! It won’t be the same around here without hearing Trace shout out “Hey Swabs!” as we dinghy up to visit on FAITH. He fancies himself to be a British version of Captain Ron, and decided he is “Super Swab”. I don’t know how long I can go on without a good dose of Diane’s ever present optimism. She just recently gave me a talking to about embracing the weather, as there is nothing you can do to change it. I told her I wished she had lectured me sooner since I spent most of this winter p*$#*d off at Mother Nature. There will be an empty place in our days, and our hearts, here at Matanzas without our buddies on FAITH. Diane’s goodbye note said she is sure we will see each other again. We’re sure we will too, whenever it is meant to be. We have faith!

What happens on the Gulf of Mexico STAYS on the Gulf of Mexico!

2010-02-25T05:14:00.000-08:00

Returning from Put-in-Bay Days at Key West last Tuesday, Tessa’s exhausted, cold, wet, and frustrated crew decided that was our story and we were sticking to it. We had no desire to relive the events of the last 28 hours. No one needed to know about the horrible weather, the engine troubles, and especially the fact that we were being towed into our port. When we were boarded by the Coast Guard, we had no motivation to capture the events on film. Even if we wanted to, Nick’s camera battery was dead, mine was m.i.a., and Greg’s was ruined by saltwater that found it’s way into the forward cabin and drenched his belongings. I was so tired Tuesday night that I forgot to report our delayed, yet safe arrival to Nick James. Wednesday, 48 hours after our departure from Key West, Nick considered calling the Coast Guard to report us missing, when I finally called him. What began as a weary, brief account of the trip turned into an emotional flood of details. Before I was finished, my director/producer was exclaiming “OHHHH, this is good stuff!! You need to tell this story in your blog!” “Please, Nick James!” I pleaded. “I want to forget about it, not write about it!” OK, OK, I’ll write about it……. Everything started out smoothly. Thursday morning, Tessa’s crew assembled, stowed belongings, and got comfortable for the anticipated 20 hour overnight voyage. Mike and Mary Moore narrowly avoided a brutal Columbus Ohio snow storm to join us. Nick Grillo escaped the same storm from Mansfield, and Greg Roberto was already in Fort Myers, ready for the Key West adventure. We had a good weather window, and the seas remained mostly calm as we scooted down the coastline of Fort Myers, Naples, and Marco Island, avoiding crab pots. As dusk approached, some playful dolphins put on a fantastic show, racing along beside us and frolicking in our bow wake. Our dinner menu consisted of panko crusted mahi-mahi, drizzled with red Thai curry sauce, accompanied with ginger saffron basmati rice. We enjoyed an awesome sunset, and soon the satisfied crew members were ready to crawl into their bunks. The guys worked out a four hour watch schedule, and the overnight cruise progressed uneventfully. It got a little choppy during the night, and I worried a bit about Mike and Mary’s reaction to their first sleep-over sail. Mike reported that they giggled a lot as their bodies bumped and rolled against each other…for all the wrong reasons. We arrived at the Westin Marina, Key West, early Friday morning, shortly after the Celebrity Cruise Ship. The port and marina were bustling with activity, and I proclaimed that we picked the most “happening place” in Key West to dock. Right next to Mallory Square, one block to the shops, bars, and restaurants that we intended to frequent. The dock master greeted us warmly, then added “You do know we’re expecting a big blow this afternoon?” And blow it did! There were reports of 20, 30, even 40 knot winds during the afternoon storm. Rain dampened Tessa and Crew, but not our happy hour spirits. Eggs Benedict were first on the agenda Saturday morning, before we began the Key West bar crawl toward Sloppy Joes for the sixth annual Put-in-Bay Music Festival. Bob Gatewood kicked off the event and the crowd rewarded his energetic performance with a standing ovation. Ray Fogg, Pete & Wayne, Mike Mad Dog Adams, and finally Pat Daily entertained the rowdy PIB and Key West crowd late into the night. Gary won two complimentary Boardwalk Lobster Bisques for being the first buckethead of the day. Mary Moore won Jet Express passes for guessing Big E’s waist size….on stage. Greg won a t-shirt, Nick won Miller Ferry passes. We saw lots of PIB friends and made some new Key West ones. Sunday morning, we evaluated the weather forecast to determine whether a Sunday or Monday departure was in order. Gary was inclined to leave Sunday. Nick, Greg, and I were in no hurry to get back to Fort Myers. Mike and Mary had a flight out that afternoon, so they had no opinion…other than they just plain didn’t want to leave. There was a chance of wind on our nose on Monday night and Tuesday. But when is the forecast ever right??? Gary conceded to stay. I voiced my concern. “I just don’t want this decision to come back and bite me in the… “It won’t” Gary interrupted. “We’re staying. I’m OK with it.” The weather Sunday was beautiful, and we enjoyed every single minute of it. Monday was equally as beautiful, and the Gulf was a welcoming, tranquil, turquoise. There was not enough wind to sail, but was a delight to relax and enjoy the warm sun and peaceful seas. I encouraged Gary to stretch out and take a nice long nap to be rested up for his night watch. As I began to prepare some angel hair with clam sauce, I heard a buzzing alarm, and Nick shouted down to me “What’s the normal oil pressure supposed to be?” Ummm, not sure. Better wake the Captain. “SHUT IT DOWN, SHUT IT DOWN!” our groggy Captain responded, meaning to shut down the engine immediately. There was plenty of oil on the dip stick, but it was a creamy, milky consistency. Not good, but not an emergency. The wind was building from the west for a close reach, so we put up full sails and gradually were charging along, due north, at seven to eight knots. A few hours later, everything drastically changed. The wind clocked around to the north and built to a steady 20 knots, gusting to 25 and 30. We were heeling almost 30 degrees. Gary reefed the genoa and main to try to steady the boat. Tessa confidently crashed through the waves, but she didn’t like it much when they built to 8 to 10 feet. As I tried to read down below, she would hit one of the big waves with a resounding “WHAM”, then shudder to nearly a complete stop before charging ahead again. These abrupt stops, combined with the heeling, made it very uncomfortable to move about down below as I tried to keep some semblance of order. Anything that wasn’t attached to a bulkhead was thrown about the cabins. The tremendous force of the waves allowed saltwater to permeate the slightest weakness in a port or hatch. Later, during clean-up, we wiped a layer of salt off the table and even the walls in the main salon. Of course, some rain squalls had to jump in on the action during the dark night. It was like Mother Nature was standing above us swirling a broomstick and cackling like the Wicked Witch of the West. Since the wind howled directly out of the north, right on our nose, we had to tack back and forth to make any headway. For twenty four hours. The sun rose, but the wind and waves did not fall off. Nick woke from a brief nap, looked around down below, and commented “I saw houses in New Orleans destroyed by Katrina that looked better than this.” I laughed for the first time in 12 hours. Greg was such a trooper. During watches, he could rest in his top, starboard bunk only while on a port tack, so it was necessary to wake him before we changed directions to avoid tossing him across the cabin like a rag doll. Later on Tuesday afternoon, when the end was in sight, Greg asked Captain Gary how much further to go. Gary replied “17.4 nautical miles.” About a hour later we tacked. Greg, even more anxious, asked “How much further now, Captain?” Gary replied “17.5” The look on Greg’s face made me laugh for the second time that day! My Captain, as always, remained cool, calm, collected and steadfast in his mission to get us to our home port safely. Approximately ten miles out, he made the call that all Captains dread, to TowBoat U.S. He made the call to not try bringing Tessa into Matanzas Pass with the milky oil. There is a feeling of impotence when a Captain cannot bring his vessel to port under it’s own power. But enough was enough on this day, time to throw in the towel and put an end to our misery. Captain Gary needed some rest. Tow Boat Captain Ed responded immediately and suggested that we make one more tack in his direction, as we were moving at 7.5 knots and he could not even tow us that fast. Greg, stay with us now, just one more tack and it’s over….. After Ed hooked up and began the slow tow in, he hailed us on the radio to warn that a Coast Guard boat was heading straight toward Tessa. Sure enough, the next transmission we hear is the Coast Guard advising TowBoat U.S. that they will be boarding the vessel in tow. Captain Ed later told us this was a first of this happening in the twenty four years he has towed vessels. From the look on Gary’s face, I thought he may just crumble to his knees in defeat. He had navigated for nearly thirty hours, through wind and rain and waves, only to complete the day being BOARDED BY THE COAST GUARD?????????? He could not disguise or conceal the major stink eye he gave them, but he remained calm, answered all their questions, produced all the documentation and safety equipment, and passed their inspection with flying colors. There was one tense moment when he couldn’t find the tube of flares that are usually on the port shelf in our stateroom. “Lori, do you know where are flares are?” I know exactly where they are. When they flew across the cabin and struck me in the head last night, I tucked them under the mattress for safekeeping. Even after producing the flares, the Coast Guard said they were all expired. Confused, Gary pulls out every other flare on board stored in various compartments. All expired. More confused, Gary goes back to the original tube, where he locates the flares that are not expired. “Ooops, my bad“ the Coastie apologizes. No, he didn’t really apologize. All he did was check flares off the list and announce that we passed inspection. Fine, now take your big messy boots off our boat and let us get the heck home please!!!!! (not spoken aloud) The rest of the tow in was uneventful, aside from the many inquiring glances from our fellow mooring ball neighbors. There is nothing like a good break down to excite sailors, as long as it’s not their own boat being towed! Gary thought that Greg was so anxious to get off the boat that he could and would have inflated the dinghy by mouth instead of pump, but Greg fooled him. Instead, he threw himself and his luggage on the TowBoat U.S. boat and had his best friend Captain Ed drop him at the dock. Now that the ordeal is behind us, we have all been able to find some redeeming aspects of the voyage. We are all still friends. Greg still loves Tessa but is not inclined to hit the high seas again soon. Nick Grillo had another boat trip scheduled back down to the Keys but decided a Budget Rental Car sounded a skosh more comfortable. He has, however, volunteered to crew again on the journey back down to the Keys when we depart Fort Myers. I learned two important things. My confidence in Tessa had not been tested since the trip up the Atlantic last spring. This trip proved that I, and Tessa, passed the test. I honestly, truly, was not scared for one moment. I was miserable, uncomfortable, and pretty much hated it. But I was not scared. Most importantly, I learned to always, always, always, trust my Captain’s first instinct when it comes to a weather window. Even though he did the honorable thing by not even once saying “I told you so” about leaving Sunday instead of Monday, he had to be thinking it over and over again as the sleep deprivation set in. Ultimately, he is responsible for Tessa and her crew, and he is the one struggling at the helm through wind and rain and whatever else the Wicked Witch throws at him. The next trip we take, Captain Gary makes ALL the calls. That’s my story and I’m stickin to it! Unless he wants to do an overnighter…or there’s the slightest chance that the wind will be on our nose…or there is any chance that the wind will go above 20 knots…or there’s a chance it will storm. How about there needs to be a 100 percent chance that we will have sailing breezes and sunshine? That sounds good, doesn’t it Captain?

It is a Happy New Year...Finally!

2010-01-25T00:25:00.000-08:00

It is a happy new year! We haven’t left Florida since January 1st, but Florida definitely left us. Today, the temperature was a balmy 62 degrees down below when we awoke, instead of the frigid 42 degrees we experienced more mornings than I want to remember. We opened the hatches and left them open for the entire day! We happily recognized and waved to our neighbors as we dinghied along, instead of lifting a hand to unidentified boaters hiding in canvas enclosures or hunkered in dinghies covered in hats, hoodies, and foul weather gear. We all greeted each other with “Isn’t this wonderful?” and “It’s about time!” instead of “Are you staying warm?” or “It can’t last much longer….can it?” We put bathing suits on for the first time this year, and took a long beach walk luxuriating in the hot sun and warm ocean breeze. The sky was blue and the sand was warm. We enjoyed the wonderful smell of sun tan lotion instead of avoiding the smell of dead fish that had sadly washed up on the beach due to unseasonably cold waters. The tourists strolled the beach, frolicked in the water, and relaxed on lounge chairs soaking up rays, instead of looking disappointed and forlorn wrapped in towels and sweatshirts. Today, everything just felt good. We knew it was our lucky day while during our walk I found a nickel, then Gary found a dime…both “heads up”. We returned to Tessa to catch up on outdoor boat chores, and never enjoyed them more. I scrubbed the water line and the dinghy, while Gary washed down the deck and topsides. We opened up the canvas and let the warm breeze flow through, instead of keeping it tightly zipped to cut the cold, damp winds. We celebrated the return of sunny Florida by playing Bob Marley…really loud. We each have a shadow of a tan line beginning. This is what it’s supposed to feel like in Florida. We’ve turned the corner and everything is looking up. How could I be more absolutely, positively convinced of this, after I walked by the marina soda machine this afternoon to find it spitting out dimes like a Las Vegas slot machine? I hastily gathered them up off the floor and stuck them in my pocket. Finders keepers, losers weepers. Then, I reported the malfunction to the office… and promptly bought a lottery ticket at 7-Eleven with my $5.00 jackpot. In spite of the weather, it’s still been a very, very happy new year for us so far. Life is good! Even if we don’t win the lottery. p.s. If we do happen to win the Florida Powerball on Wednesday, free trip to Fort Myers for our 500 closest family and friends!

MONOGAMY?

2010-01-02T13:40:00.000-08:00

Before the rumors get out, we might as well go ahead and admit it. We sleep around. During our trip up north, we slept nine different places out of eleven nights. We slept on an air mattress, a futon, a pull out sofa, a mattress and box springs, three spare bedrooms, and two hotel rooms. We are not particular. We just keep following the fun. And what fun we had! We shared a tuna boat at Nagoya with Nick and Lynne. We joined our Clinton Reef Club friends for the annual Christmas party. We enjoyed a wonderful holiday celebration with the Milson clan in Detroit. Then we headed south to Dayton to spend six days with family and friends. We had a festive lunch at Bob and Mary Jane’s, joined by Brands’ Marina friends Roy and Diane. We spent our traditional first night in Dayton at the Crowne Plaza Club Lounge with Rita and Dammit Jim. Next night, we had a pizza party with Greg, Mark and Carol at Washington Colony. Night three, another pizza party with Mom, Cindy, Betti, Mike, and Robin at Mom’s house. Night four was a pre-birthday dinner at El Meson with Mom, Tony, and Cindy. Friday, Gary took Mom and I out for a wonderful sushi lunch for my birthday. Friday night was a Christmas open house at Mom’s. Saturday was the big hurrah, our family Christmas celebration. We always spend the day in festive anticipation, wrapping presents, cooking, preparing, setting the dining room table. Cousin Pammie and her girls arrived early in the afternoon for Pammie’s bread making class with Mom. As the story goes, recently Mom tried to talk her through the bread recipe over the phone, and the results were disastrous. We all watched skeptically as the two of them went through the steps. Mom has had years to perfect her bread making skills, and we were doubtful about Pammie’s second try. Uncle David took Alivia, Alex, and Lauren out back to build a snowman. It was so sweet to watch them gleefully pelt each other with snowballs. David had a hard time channeling their efforts, but eventually they succeeded in creating a classic snowman. We had a wonderful time together that night, the kids opening presents, then all of us cracking crab legs and jokes around the table. Shirley and Bill Mehaffie stopped by, and Dammit Jim made his annual visit to share some Christmas cheer and funny stories of our past adventures. Later that night, we headed back to Washington Colony to celebrate Greg Roberto’s 60th birthday. We spent that night at Tony’s, then departed the following morning, anxious to return to our monogamous lifestyle on board Tessa. Or so we hoped…… Except, the first night back in Florida, we slept at Don Dunn’s, as it was too late to catch a ride out to Tessa in the mooring field at Matanza’s. Back on board the next day, we vowed to slow down the pace and get back into our Tessa groove. Except, we needed to start planning our Christmas Eve and Christmas Day festivities staying with Don and Lauren back on Pine Island. We had a great Christmas Eve feast of baked brie, oysters, escargot, and Gary’s famous French onion soup. Christmas day, Don suggested we take his “airship” boat back over to Matanza’s to pick up our friends Tom and Lynette from Por Fin. Back on Pine Island, we all shared in the preparation and consumption of prime rib, twice baked potatoes, roasted asparagus, and disgustingly caloric eggnog. OK, Christmas is out of the way. Now we can get back to normal, just the three of us. Except, we had planned to stay over with Kevin and Carol at the Holiday Inn Sunday night after a big dollar-a-drink party at the “DEK”. The deal was that we would buy for them at the Dek, across the street from their hotel, and in turn we could crash in their room that night. But our ever so generous friend Kevin surprised us with a room of our own. What a treat! The bed was soooooo luxurious. Sorry Tessa, we’ll get back to you soon enough. It’s nothing personal, but did I mention that bed was sooooooo luxurious? OK, next day, back on board and ready to get back on course. Just the three of us. Except, next comes New Years Eve. We invited Bryan Diveto and Danielle to stay with us on Tessa, and Greg Roberto also decided to join in. We co-hosted an oyster “Slurp n Burp” party at Matanzas, then had a great time ringing in the new year on Fort Myers beach with our friends Paige and Jim and Tom and Lynette. As we enjoy a spectacular Fort Myers sunset on this first day of this new year, I contemplate a resolution. We will stop all this sleeping around and stay home on board Tessa where we belong. That’s it, we’re monogamous again. Over. Finito. Done deal. Except, we already made plans to sleep on “Sanctuary” with Angie in Key Biscayne tomorrow night. And Sunday night, we agreed to sleep at Greg’s new vacation home in North Fort Myers. Sleeping around has earned such a bad rap, but we have discovered that no matter where you sleep, or what you sleep on, it’s a wonderful thing to sleep with the ones you love.

Romancing the Turveys

2009-12-06T07:46:00.001-08:00

We fell in love with Ken and Jane Turvey during our first happy hour together. As they moved in across the hall that winter so many years ago, I suggested to Gary that we invite the new neighbors for happy hour. "Maybe they don't drink" Gary worried. "Let's find out" I replied, and across the hall I went to extend the invitation. At 5:00, our guests arrived and I inquired "What can I get you to drink?" "I'll have a Martini!" Jane replied without hesitation. "I'll have a Manhattan!" Ken followed enthusiastically. Gary and I exchanged a glance of surprised delight. We were going to get along with our new neighbors just fine! And so the romance began. Our first happy hour extended late into the evening, as we began politely getting acquainted, then warmed up to each other in record time. Jane broke the ice with her sharp wit very early during one of the many stories they shared. What brought them to Clinton Reef Club for the winter? "All our friends in Florida are dead" she replied. OK, that wasn't the reply we were expecting, but it was candid enough to be humorous. Later, they described how they met and were determined to be married before Ken went to WW2. What, we asked, was the rush to get married? "Sex" Jane replied. "He wanted sex." Then she followed "I, on the other hand, wanted the insurance policy, because I was sure he wasn't coming back." Their teasing, loving banter continued that way, as we suspect it has for all the sixty plus years they had been together. Ken, so charming, funny, eloquent. Jane, so straightforward, witty, mischievous. We wanted to be just like Ken and Jane. They claimed we were so much like them in their younger years. We soaked up every detail of their rich, colorful, exciting pasts, while they loved hearing about our hectic schedules and upcoming social events. We loved cooking for each other, sharing our favorite specialties over jokes, stories, and so many laughs. Jane loved my shrimp Oscar, but outdid me with her lamb chops. Ken loved my soups, but they paled in comparison to his famous garlic butter oysters. And NO ONE could make waffles like Ken Turvey. His waffles were not just food, they were an event! During the days, while hard at work in our office at the clubhouse, we would watch Ken trudge through snow and ice, so bundled up that he looked like Freddie Krueger, getting his exercise. At nights, we played games, watched movies, listened to music, and ate triple dipped malted milk balls and chocolate covered cherries. On Sunday nights, Jane and I would be glued to the TV watching Desperate Housewives while Ken and Gary argued about politics and pretended not to like our show. Wasn't macho to enjoy Desperate Housewives. Eventually our foursome expanded to include Nick and Lynne and Bryan Diveto. We celebrated most holidays and special occasions together, even if it was a brief stop-by at the Turveys for a quick drink or malted milk ball. On Superbowl Sundays, our condo common area was transformed into Stadium Seating. The guys decided to project the game on the entire wall, Nick made the fifty yard line out of white duct tape, while Lynne, Jane, and I prepared appetizers, we lined up our seats, and moved Ken's recliner out into the hall so he would be comfortable watching the game. The best Superbowl memories ever. Sharing winters expanded to sharing summers at Put-in-Bay. We partied on Tessa and we partied at their home. We got to know their friends and family, they got to know ours, and soon without realizing it, everyone kind of molded into one big wonderful circle of love. When Jane died we all feared that the circle, and Ken, were broken. But he surprised us all by ever so slowly wading through his grief. As the piles of sympathy cards and letters accumulated unopened on his tv tray, we encouraged him to open them and gather strength from the heartfelt messages. His family and friends surrounded him with so much love and support that he was somehow able to find the strength to move on beyond the loss of Jane. We were so fortunate to make many more happy memories together with Ken. $2.00 Burger Night at Mr. Ed's with Beckie and Chris. Fourth of July Fireworks on board Tessa with Ken, Davey & Jessie, Katie, Ron & Robin, Sue & Denny. Sunset sailing with Marv and Pat, listening to Ken and Marv reminice. Leg of Lamb dinners hosted by Davey & Jessie, Ron & Robin, along with Sue & Denny, Nick & Lynne, and Lee & Frances. Lunch at the Boardwalk and Houligans, followed by long lazy golf cart rides all around the island, enjoying Ken's wonderful stories of life on Put-in-Bay. Just simply stopping by with friends to visit with Ken and Happy. And many more waffles....oh he was so proud of his waffles. Wednesday night we learned that Ken had passed away. After Gary and I hugged and cried and then hugged and cried some more, I began to feel comforted by the realization that while we were feeling the pain of Ken's loss, he was rejoicing in his reunion with Jane. A picture began to form in my mind, of Ken seeing Jane again, kneeling down, wrapping his arms around her waist,and saying something poetic like "Jane, my love, I've missed you so much, I love you so much, and I am so happy that we are back together again forever." Jane then pokes him in the shoulder and replies "What took you so long, Turvey?" And the romance continues........

2009-11-27T10:13:00.000-08:00

LAND HO!!!

2009-11-24T08:24:00.000-08:00

11:15 est November 24th, 2009 Just off the coast of Captiva Island and about 3 1/2 hours away from our winter home at Matanzas Marina. Tessa under power and is having some charging issues as she is not recharging her power cells. Will have more soon. Love to All! P.S. We're almost HOME!!!

Ft. Myers, here we come...

2009-11-22T12:41:00.000-08:00

Tessa, Capt. Gary and Lori are now in the Gulf heading to Ft. Myers. Expected to arrive Tuesday afternoon.

2009-11-22T08:07:00.001-08:00

How appropriate that we would pass right by Captain Sid on our way out of Mobile Bay. I waved and waved farewell, and out into the Gulf of Mexico we went. OK, so we did happen to go aground on an unmarked sand bar, but Captain Gary maneuvered us safely back to deep water. We successfully accomplished our first overnight (27 hour) passage with just the two of us on board. I took the 7:00 p.m. - 8:00 p.m. shift, Gary took the 8:00 p.m. - 6:00 a.m. shift, then I came back on for the 6:00 a.m. - 7:00 a.m. shift. OK, so I only did two hours and Gary did ten. I'm trying to ease into this night watch thing. Dolphins greeted us as we entered the Gulf. The sunset was awesome. Winds picked up and rolled us around during the night and coming into Panama City Inlet, but as soon as we docked and walked to the beach it was absolutley flat and sparkling innocently at us. Go figure. Now we wait for the next front to move through Saturday/Sunday and hope for a good 48 hour weather window to cross to Fort Myers. Love, Lori and Sleepy Captain

"Shrimp, the other red meat"

2009-11-19T07:48:00.001-08:00

Since I met Captain Sid, we have had shrimp cocktail, old bay shrimp, shrimp omelets, shrimp cakes, , BBQ shrimp, ginger garlic shrimp, sesame shrimp, steamed shrimp, and grilled shrimp. And that's all we have to say about that!

“A picture’s worth a thousand words”

2009-11-17T15:47:00.000-08:00

As soon as the word spread that I was an official published author (Living Aboard Magazine Nov/Dec Issue) I began to feel a twinge of writers block. Then, after the “It’ll Work Out” update came a threatening phone call from our video producer . “WE NEED MORE DRAMA!” Nick James demanded. That totally locked me up. I longed for the feeling of writer’s anonymity. The river days turned into weeks, and the pressure built. Sure, we were having a fantastic time, enjoying every minute of the adventure. Each new day I anticipated that something significant would happen to inspire a good story. The rain finally ended, a bright sun came out, temperatures warmed up, and the scenery was absolutely gorgeous. But you can only write so many flowery, colorful descriptions before readers get bored. Our daily routine was simple and thankfully drama-free. Awake at dawn, get underway, have warming oatmeal for breakfast, be prepared for the next lock, and look forward to snuggling in our bunk shortly after sunset. We cherished each moment of peaceful solitude. But everyone’s already heard this story before. So Gary and Lori really, really love being together. Blah blah blah blah blah. After days and nights of locking, docking, and anchoring together, fellow cruisers (and even their dogs) evolved into special friends. As each long day on the water came to an end, we shared a sense of accomplishment and intimacy, docked close by or rafted off together in secluded anchorages. We enjoyed interesting stories, lots of laughs, delicious food, and abundant libations. But a writer risks losing the audience with stories that you really “had to be there” to enjoy. While every other cruiser on the Tenn-Tom Waterway anguished over Hurricane Ida’s landfall in Mobile Alabama, I secretly rejoiced. Nothing like a hurricane to create drama with a capital D! Finally, an exciting story would come together. Let ‘er rip, Ida! We sought safety in a hurricane hole for three days, and all we got was some rain with maybe twenty knot gusts. What happened to the 60 knot winds? Is that all you got, Ida? What was the point of putting out two anchors, other than to have them foul around each other into a tangled mess? Getting that darn slimy catfish off my hook was the most dramatic thing that happened. Ida let me down. As the Dog River Marina dock master put it, “That li’l thang wan’t nothin. I don’t even board up my house till it’s a category three!” Debbie from here at Turner Marina told me “We’ve had worse summer thunderstorms than that li’l old thing!” So, I guess ya’ll er gonna hafta let the pictures tell the stories. Ya’ll enjoy!

Sticks are Up!

2009-11-13T12:38:00.000-08:00

Well, after five consecutive nights at anchor, the cupboards are bare, the bar is depleted, the freezer is empty, the holding tank is full, the laundry is overflowing, we're down to our last kleenex, papertowel, and roll of toilet paper, and we survived our first hurricane. But OH WHAT AN ADVENTURE we have had!!! This morning the masts were stepped here in Mobile, and we have begun reorganizing for the leg south to Fort Myers. As soon as the Captain gives me some time off, I will update the blog with stories and pictures. Love to all, Lori

Mobile, Alabama

2009-11-12T18:50:00.000-08:00

In Mobile, Alabama and getting the masts stepped at 9a.m. on Friday. Capt. and I are exhausted and going to bed. Will have a big update for you all soon. L, CG & T

Ida who?

2009-11-10T17:25:00.000-08:00

Ida made landfall and we did not really notice. Except for a lot of rain she did not deliver any harsher winds than we have experienced at Put-in-Bay. The two anchors held fine in the 20 knot winds here in 3 rivers lake. They are expecting a 10 ft rise in the river which may delay us for heading down to Mobile. The higher water means more "dead heads" (logs) to bump along your hull. There are a flock of boats upriver ready to get to Mobile after Nov. 15th (because of their hurricane insurance policies) to step their masts. So we do not want any more delays. After 3 days without shore power and showering, Lori heated some water and Gary and Her took hot water sponge baths. (separately) It was heaven... Will keep you posted as long as we can keep in contact with "real" civilization. Love Lori, Captain Gary and Tessa

Waiting out Ida

2009-11-09T17:01:00.000-08:00

Have two anchors set in 3 River Lake just outside of McIntosh, AL. Have storm anchor on standby. 5 other boats are sharing the experience. Currently no wind just lots of rain. Lori caught a 1 pound catfish today. (Finally she caught something...) Ida making landfall at about Midnight and moving off to the East. Cell phone coverage still crappy. Love to All.

2009-11-08T08:38:00.000-08:00

Currently going through the Coffeeville lock. What are the odds that a Frickin' hurricane is going to hit Mobile, Alabama the same Frickin' day we were going to have our Masts restepped?!? We will be at anchor about 60 miles north of Mobile when Ida makes landfall. Cell phone coverage is basically non existant down here. Love to All!

Lori's "Krazy" Dream

2009-10-31T05:08:00.001-07:00

We woke up this morning at the marina in Clifton Tennessee feeling groggy and slightly hung over. As per our normal routine, I began to tell Gary, in great detail, about the crazy dream I had. This one was a doozy! It started out with us having happy hour beers with all the locals in the marina store. Everyone was really friendly and we were having a great time, getting pretty buzzed up. Then this one guy invites us to go out for a few more beers. One of the other guys, who reminded me of Jamaica John from the Bay, decides to go along. Next thing we know, we’re in a the back seat of a big pick up truck winding along the dark deserted back roads of Tennessee. First stop, somewhere out in the woods, was to pick us up a “Welcome to Clifton” jar of Tennessee’s Best Moonshine. Then all of a sudden we’re at this juke joint called BILLY BOB’S, where I flirted outrageously with all the bib-overall clad guys at the bar. I remember sitting on the cutest one’s lap. He liked it so much he shared some of his moonshine with us. We heard music coming from the back room, and discovered it was karaoke night. Next thing I know, Gary’s bringin the house down with Chantilly Lace. And the night wouldn’t have been complete without some serious co-ed pipe smoking. Somehow we made it back to the boat, and I think we even had a nip of moonshine for a nightcap. “Baby, that was no dream” Gary interrupts. “ Look at the pictures on the camera.” “And by the way” he adds. “We decided to stay another day and we’re all meeting again this afternoon at 4:00.” WHAT?

2009-10-28T07:19:00.000-07:00

Just a quick update. We departed Paris Tennessee this morning, heading as far south as we can get today to avoid the predicted rain for tomorrow and Friday. We're really looking forward to Pickwick Lake, the scenery is supposed to resemble the North Channel. Next we enter the Tenn-Tom Waterway, which we've been told by fellow cruisers is a great experience, lots of quaint towns and friendly marinas. Love, Lori & Captain Gary P. S. Does this guy look like he's having fun????

It'll Work Out

2009-10-22T16:06:00.001-07:00

We have the most amazing friends! Second Watch Commander George Hipp endured the most arduous part of our journey south last September, and still volunteered to make the Atlantic to Erie Canal passage north last May, knowing full well that he would be labor crew for the masts unstepping, stepping, and unstepping again. Jim Jordan cooked and co-navigated for us all the way from Annapolis to South Port, North Carolina last fall. Now he is working feverishly to rearrange his busy work schedule to ensure that he is on one of the legs down to Fort Myers. Dick and Molly Widdis drove our Jeep to Florida last fall, delivered it to our doorstep in Key Biscayne, and then drove it all the way back to Brands Marina in the spring. Last November, Don Dunn brought himself, Lauren, and four cases of Two-Buck-Chuck on board in St. Marys Georgia, and helped us put it in the kitchen all the way to destination Key Biscayne. This year it took trains, planes, and automobiles, but he was here for us once again. And thinking way back to 2005, Nick James accompanied Captain Gary 512 non-stop nautical miles from Port Clinton to Manitowoc Wisconsin for Chas‘s wedding. He created our “Adventures of Tessa” blogspot and spent hours and hours compiling pictures and creating video updates. To top it all off, he eagerly braved the Great Lakes with us this trip, providing comic relief all 600 miles from Port Clinton to Waukegan.

During the mast unstepping, he so wanted to stick around and help, that Lynne had to drag him away kicking and screaming. Or maybe not…….. Masts secured on deck, next stop the anchorage in Chicago, directly in front of the John Hancock Center.

It was a gorgeous background for some rest and relaxation before entering the Chicago River on Monday morning. Even if we could have found a reasonably priced dock for the night, it wouldn’t have gained us anything. A martini at the top of the Hancock Center sounded great, like the corporate days when we both worked shows in town. But we’ve since traded leather briefcases and somber business suits for worn out deck shoes and grease stained yellow foulies. We might look just a wee bit out of place in Downtown Chicago. Doesn’t mean we can’t enjoy a martini on Tessa, where we fit in just perfectly!

The Chicago river was intimidating. It felt like we’d pulled into the left lane of Monday morning rush hour traffic, ferries and water taxies hustling by, bridge after bridge looking just maybe high enough for us to squeeze under, skyscrapers looming overhead.

It wasn’t until after we cleared the electric fish barrier that we were able to relax for the rest of the trip to Joliet. The municipal free dock in Joliet was a great place to lay over and wait for Don Dunn’s arrival Tuesday evening. We asked a family strolling along the river walk if there was a local pub close by, and they directed us to nearby Harrah’s Casino. Not exactly what we were looking for, but they had fancy restrooms and free coffee and sodas. Whoo-hoo!

What was that bright light coming through the hatch Tuesday morning? Could it be? Yes it was…THE SUN!!! We relished every moment, walking about town, sipping our complimentary sodas. Life was good in Joliet.

Don hitched a ride with a friend from Port Clinton to Chicago, then took a train down to Joliet, in time to join us for dinner and an early lights out. Wednesday morning we were headin this “recreational vessel” down river, through two locks, hoping to make good time to the highly recommended town of Ottawa. To pass the time en route, I brought up a book that is a list of questions, some funny, some serious, all beginning with “If”. We learned a lot more about Captain Don Dunn. If he could be anyplace in the world, it would be his cabin in Virginia. If he could be any other name, it would be Garth. “GARTH??” I gasped, trying not to laugh. Apparently, he was scarred for life in fourth grade when some kid named Garth stole the love of his life. He and Gary decided to nickname our Garmin GPS Garth in his honor. If he enjoyed another country’s customs, it would be the ones that say “see you later” or “until we meet again.” He doesn’t like good-byes. And we learned his favorite new saying that originated from Robert, one of his employees at the Boardwalk Marina.

“It’ll work out.” Dresden Lock is just below the confluence of the Illinois, Des Plaines, and Kankakee rivers. After a long, frustrating wait, we were given the option of joining the Pamela H barge in the lock, or wait a couple of hours to lock through after her. The guys said we’d have no problem, no sweat, it’ll work out. So in we went, grabbing lines behind another r/v. The turmoil the huge barge created as the water level dropped forty feet caused Tessa to surge fore and aft and sideways, squishing bumpers and forcing the bow and mast toward the lock wall, way to close for comfort. It seemed to go on forever! I stared nervously up to the top of the lock at the skinny lines that Tessa was suspended from. Surely at any moment one would SNAP under the pressure, allowing our stern to be sucked toward the barge, causing the bow and mast to CRASH forward into the wall. I waited fearfully for something to go wrong. Gary and Don thought it was cool.

Later that afternoon, we tied up to Ottawa’s welcoming municipal dock. A friendly local, Dave Marsh, stopped by and introduced himself. Was there anything he could do for us while in Ottawa? Sure! We need propane! The store closed in fifteen minutes, so Dave ran and got his car and he and Gary took off for town. After they returned, Dave came down below to visit. First topic of discussion…where to eat in Ottawa? We followed his recommendation and headed up town to Jardines. It was good and cheap, a perfect combination.

Afterwards, we were down below on Tessa with full stomachs, ready for bed, when we heard “Gary, Lori, Don, it’s David”. He had returned with a gift of squash soup, home made from all local Ottawa produce. While chatting away, he remembered his girlfriend Becky was waiting out in the car. With a little encouragement, she joined us down below for a pleasant visit. They were both great ambassadors of Ottawa.

The next morning, Gary and I walked up town to provision. Ottawa is a hustling bustling little town and we immediately felt it’s positive energy. Our first stop was Herman’s Package Store to replenish our adult beverage supply. Here, Jimmy cheerfully inquired “Are you Loopers”? “We’re half looped” I answered, since we hadn’t done the Trent Severn portion of the Great Loop. The friendly clerk insisted on holding our packages there while we finished shopping at the supermarket. Then Jimmy would deliver us and all of our provisions back to Tessa. The people at the market were equally as friendly, chatting about “Loopers” and our adventures. Jimmy gave us a tour around town, enthusiastically pointing out landmarks and sharing Ottawa history. He helped us unload the multiple bags and boxes of provisions, thanked us for visiting Ottawa, and encouraged us to return again. We were so impressed with this town’s hospitality. Everybody OTTA GO TO OTTAWA!!!”

Thursday we forged southwest toward our evening destination of Henry Harbor. We were in serious need of three things. Water, pumpout, and diesel…in that order. Due to the unseasonably cold weather, the water was shut off and the pumpout was frozen up. We topped off the diesel, and the dock master pointed toward our dock assignment, a stone wall. “Do we have a Plan B?” Don whispered to me, but Gary was impressed. This wasn’t just any stone wall. It was the remains of the first and oldest lock on the Illinois River for gosh sakes! Captivator, an eighty foot yacht was expected to join us on the wall that evening. “This spot is just fine1” I announced, ready for some serious schmoozing with wealthy dock mates. Don finally conceded, muttering “It’ll work out.” We made a b-line to the bar and showers.

While we chatted with a local customer, the bartender, Becca, served up some gianormous Long Island Iced Teas. Don needed a sports fix, and headed up town to the VFW. Gary and I showered and stopped back in the bar to visit with Becca before heading to Tessa for dinner. When we mentioned we would be in Peoria the next night, she recommended Sully’s Pub and told us to call her if we made it, as she and her friend were planning on being there too.

While Don concluded his evening playing a dice game with Becca and the South African Captain Graham from Captivator, we were already sound asleep, schmoozing forgotten. The trip to Peoria was scenic and exciting. We saw our first white pelicans and jumping Asian Carp! Boat wake and noise stirs them into a jumping frenzy, and it’s not unusual for a bloody carp to end flopping around on deck., sometimes injuring boaters. Don’s assignment was to handle any carp issues while Gary and I remained safely in the cockpit. We were both secretly disappointed when none of them jumped on board.

The Peoria Municipal Docks were already occupied by Captivator and another yacht Private Reserve when we arrived. Another shot at schmoozing! Graham helped us with dock lines, then told us his harrowing story of breaking down on the Illinois River. He also mentioned that he and Becca had partied into the wee hours back at Henry Harbor. I was very obviously captivated by his good looks, charm, and really sexy accent. But I was absolutely not flirting when I offered to trade him Becca’s phone number for a Guinness at Sully’s. Let the schmoozing begin!

Don went to the Peoria River Men Hockey game and Hooters. We had great beers and burgers at Sully’s, but didn‘t see Becca or Graham. Hmmm… That night we met Brady, the Captain of Private Reserve and visited with two trawlers heading south. We all agreed to leave at first light Saturday morning so that we could lock down together to expedite the locking process. At 06:15 Saturday morning, Gary called the lockmaster for clearance, and was told it was closed for repairs until 17:00 that night. We quickly spread the disappointing news to our dock mates, and then began planning how we would pass another twenty four hours in Peoria. Let’s see, there’s Sully’s, Hooters, Old Chicago Brewery, The Martini Bar…..and a hardware store!

We really had a great layover there, enjoying our dock mates and the sunny day. Don was a bit frustrated, since he was on a mission to deliver a boat and hated to lose a day heading south. I reminded him that “It’ll work out.”

Next morning before dawn, Brady was the messenger. “They’re ready for us at the lock, let’s go!” They weren’t exactly ready, the 8 minutes to fill became 108, but we made it through, only to be surrounded by thick soupy fog when the lock gates opened. Private Reserve and Captivator dropped anchor outside of the main channel, and Tessa followed suit. I was still recovering from the frigid early morning departure, complete with dock lines covered in ice, so I crawled back into our bunk to wait out the delay. Captain Gary and Don could handle things on their own.

Eventually we were on our way making great time to an anchorage along Bar Island. It was a perfect spot., peaceful, picturesque, calm, with good protection. We slept great on the hook. Next stop was Grafton Harbor. We liked the marina’s amenities, but the town sidewalks were rolled up tight. Nothin to see here folks! Except the nearby hotel, where we stopped for a beer and I immediately proclaimed was haunted. On the way out, we met a ghost hunter crew gearing up to record some paranormal activity that night. While we were talking ghosts, Gary actually felt the hairs raise on the back of his neck. I called that one right. Tuesday morning we were finally on the great Mississippi River, or “The Big Muddy” as Don called it. Destination 61 miles south to the legendary Hoppie’s Marine Service. Last stop for gas, diesel, or a marina for the next 228 miles.

Don negotiated a plane ticket home and a taxi to the St. Louis Airport, while Fern offered Mississippi cruising advise to Gary and I. Amenities were a dock, power, and a commode in the barn. But our spirits were not dampened. We followed Don’s instincts into town as he sniffed out a great Bier Garten, where we met up with Tom and Lynnette from Por Fin and had a wonderful evening sharing stories.

Wednesday morning, it was time for Don to leave us. As he and I shared a long farewell hug, my mind was racing. Now I have to punch back in and be Gary’s co-captain. That means getting through locks with just the two of us. And docking without our resident professional. And I was SO going to miss that Donnie Dunn optimism and 24/7 smile. I didn’t bother to say a word. I knew what he would say. “Don’t worry Darlin. It’ll work out!” Auf Wiedersehen Captain Don.

The ADVENTURES OF TESSA Season 2

2009-10-12T04:43:00.000-07:00

“Keep the Faith” Last spring on our voyage home from Key Biscayne, Tessa and I had a bit of a falling out.. Miles out in the Atlantic between Miami and North Carolina, I lost faith in her. I was frightened, distressed, uncomfortable, and just plain miserable. After three days and nights of arduous ocean conditions, Captain Gary and Watch Commander George agreed that we needed a well deserved break, and navigated Tessa into the South Port North Carolina Marina. As soon as we tied off the dock lines, I walked up the dock toward the marina office and began to feel normal again. Gone was the fear, the lack of confidence, the distrust of Tessa’s abilities to keep us safe. I stopped and looked back at her comfortably tied at her dock, looking so proud and confident. “Why did you doubt me?” she seemed to be saying. I stood there, tears streaming, and vowed out loud “I’m sorry, Tessa. I promise I will never lose confidence in you again.” OK, maybe some of the nearby dock hands thought I was a loony tunes sailor, but anyone who loves their boat will be able to relate to this emotional reconciliation. This trip south was going to be different! Nick James, our Second Watch Commander for the first leg of the “Great Loop” south, arrived at Put-in-Bay for a scheduled 8:00 a.m. departure on Friday October 2nd. Except it was cold, blowing like crazy, and pouring rain. Thankfully, around noon things began to clear up. We pulled away from the deserted Boardwalk Docks, remembering our well attended celebratory departure last September. This year, it was just the three of us and Tessa, on our own all the way from PIB to Chicago. Tessa scooted across Lake Erie averaging eight knots, and even hit ten knots to tie her all time speed record. Gary and Nick kept tweaking, but couldn’t push us to 10.1. We made great progress, and when a beautiful rainbow arched over the Detroit River, we took it as a sign of good luck for the rest of the journey. After seven days and seven nights, three exhausted sailors pulled into the Waukegan Harbor, north of Chicago, where the masts would be unstepped. While dock lines were adjusted , a full rainbow filled the sky. We certainly enjoyed the awesome sight, but could not believe the cruel irony of it’s appearance at the end of this trip. In between the two rainbow sightings, day and night, we endured miserable, dreary, cold, wet, boisterous, nasty, uncomfortable conditions. Was there supposed to be some good luck hidden in there somewhere? It wasn’t luck that brought us across 636 nautical miles. It was the calm, competent, determined perseverance of Gary and Nick. Along with my hot meals, hot tea, hot chocolate, and moral support of course! We did manage to squeeze in some fun at a rainy stop-over in Rogers City Michigan on Sunday. There weren’t many warm dry bars to hang out in, but we managed to find a bowling alley with great pizza. I was completely humiliated by my score, but pleased that it made Nick James giddy with unsportsmanlike pleasure. The second stop was Tuesday evening in Frankfort, along the northeast coast of Lake Michigan. A gale was predicted from 11:00 p.m. to 11:00 a.m. Wednesday, so we sought the security of a dock. Gary expertly secured Tessa with extra dock lines leaving no room for error. Or so he thought, until we were awakened in the middle of the night to a powerful surge. Gary braved the wind and adjusted the spring lines as taut as possible yet the surge still continued to drive us three feet, fore and aft. We slept fitfully until morning when the winds subsided. Sadly, there was damage to a few of the boats in the marina, thankfully Tessa came out unscathed. Wednesday nearly broke our spirits. Although the gale had passed, it’s after affect left Lake Michigan in an uproar. The waves were on our nose, relentless, and confused, which confused the heck out of Tessa. She couldn’t decide whether to buck like a bronco, hobby horse, or wallow in the swells, and at some points it felt like she was trying to do all of the above at once. This continued all day and through the night. Gary was absolutely amazed when I dished up pan seared porterhouse steaks and steamed asparagus with hollandaise sauce. I can’t vouch for how it tasted, since after lurching around down below while cooking, I had completely lost my appetite, and just crawled into our bunk to suffer through the night. Gary came to bed after his 8:00 to midnight shift, but didn’t last long being tossed around in our bunk and returned to the cockpit. Nick James looked pale and exhausted after his early shift Thursday morning. We needed to find the most convenient terra firma, while still able to make our deadline in Waukegan Friday evening. Gary plotted the course and gave us our options. Stop in Milwaukee Thursday night, or keep on course for Waukegan through the night. “MILWAUKEE!” Nick and I replied in unison. It turned out to be the best choice, since it rained again all day and sapped our strength. I found the most economical dock, no frills, but with free laundry and showers. That’s all we could ask for. It was also conveniently located within walking distance to the Milwaukee Ale House, where we relaxed and drank some great local brews. Nick James entertained us during the walk back, dancing about as though he were a member of the Jets Gang in West Side Story, ready to KUT someone. This was supposed to make me feel safe on the back streets of downtown Milwaukee. I felt safer when the cops came by, but Gary worried that Nick would be arrested for interpretive dancing in public after dark. Friday morning we departed Milwaukee in the wind and rain AGAIN, but we were on the homestretch and ready for closure. Lynne James was meeting us at the marina to drive her man back home to Port Clinton. None too soon, as Nick had a meltdown earlier in the week, missing his wife terribly after he witnessed Gary and I hugging….and saw the provocative cover of the book I was reading. It was just too much stimulus for him. The three of us agreed that: a. We were uncomfortable 98.9% of the time. b. It was an adventure that we found great satisfaction in accomplishing. c. Two out of the three of us would do it again. OK, there you have it. I would not want to make this trip again!! But, honestly, there was not one point during the entire trip that I was frightened or lost my faith in Tessa. Yes, I was uncomfortable. Yes, it is not something I would want to experience again. Ultimately, undeniably, Tessa performed remarkably, kept us safe, and she knows I did not doubt her. Although once I slipped and said I wanted off “this nasty boat“, but Gary quickly shushed me and apologized profusely to her…..hopefully she’ll let that one slide.

2009-05-28T06:57:00.000-07:00

8:58 ET 5/28/09

2009-05-28T06:55:00.000-07:00

After 8 months, 23 days and nearly 4000 nautical miles, our beloved Put-in-Bay appeared on the horizon accompanied by calm, glittering Lake Erie. Perry's Monument stood proudly in the distance, and we were feeling just as proud of Tessa and her Crew. It was an inspiring homecoming. We received a warm PIB welcome from our friends at the Boardwalk, then on to a champagne celebration with Dave and Lynnette on Fantasea. Sunday we were through the 12:00 Port Clinton Drawbridge and greeted at our dock by Nick and Lynne, Bob and Mary Jane, Brad and Chris, Kirk and Anita, Bryan Diveto, Dick Widdis, and other Brands' neighbors. Hugs and kisses and questions were flying everywhere. "Yes, we had a great trip" we replied. But it felt OH SO GOOD TO BE HOME!! The overwhelming interest, concern, love and support of our family and friends has been wonderful, yet very humbling. What did we do to deserve it...and how do we pay it all back to everyone? A good start might be to pass along the most important lesson that we experienced over and over again during our travels. To quote our sailing friend Allison "Cruising will restore your faith in humanity." That it did! We found that no matter where you go, if you extend a hand in friendship, someone will be there to take it.

2009-05-22T14:39:00.002-07:00

16:38 ET 5/22/09

2009-05-22T14:39:00.001-07:00

We spent our last evening in the Erie Canal at a dock just east of Lockport New York. Nothing much there except the important things. Restrooms, showers, and a highly recommended, by local fishermen, Dairy Bar within walking distance. We cleaned up and hiked over to Reid's for the suggested "double cheeseburger smoothered" and concluded the carbo-calorie fest with ice cream sundaes. Except for Gary, who ordered an XXL double chocolate shake. The cup was so large he could barely get his hands around it, kind of like those supersize sodas that won't even fit in a cup holder. As he's making dry, bottom of the cup sucking sounds, he eyeballs my sundae and says "You eatin that?" I ran ahead out of his reach shouting "YES, I'm eatin this!" It's been a long time since we gave in to ice cream and he was totally out of control. As soon as we came down from our sugar buzzes, we called it a night in anticipation of a 6:30 a.m. wake up call to exit the canal and head for Lake Erie.

2009-05-22T06:12:00.002-07:00

9:03 ET 5/22/09

2009-05-22T06:12:00.001-07:00

Wednesday we explored the little town of Clyde, found a Geocache, and hit the canal. Tom happily took the helm and Gary got a nice break. We were going to stop in Fairport like we did last September, but decided to try a town we hadn't seen, so continued west to Pittsford. It's a bustling, trendy canal town a stone's throw from Rochester, so it's much more commercialized. We explored the town, then went in pursuit of a 99 cent draft. No luck, the beer special at the Pittsford Pub was Blue Moons for $3.50. One beer each, then back to the boat for Memphis smoked ribs, cole slaw, and baked beans. Tom got on line and located the nearest Geocache 30 feet away. "Gary, couldn't you get Tessa a little closer?" Tom complained. I found it under a bench that Tom was sitting on! Once that mission was accomplished, we hit the bunks for an early wake up call Thursday morning.

2009-05-20T18:00:00.000-07:00

20:48 ET 5/20/09

2009-05-20T17:59:00.000-07:00

Tuesday we departed Baldwinsville and continued west into Lock 24. Here we saw a bunch of fish feeding along the lock wall. "GIMME THE NET! I'm gonna catch us a fish!" Sheri screamed as she laid on the deck and assumed a netting position. Between laughing hysterically and struggling with the lock line and my boat pole, I managed to grab the net and hand it to her. Tom rolled his eyes as I, the fishing expert, informed her that fish were too fast to simply net right out of the water. But I humored her by scooting them her way with my boat pole. "I GOT ONE!!!!!!!!" she screamed as she lifted the net up with her fresh catch of a stinky slimy sucker type fish. Even though she proved me wrong, I must say that watching this was worth every ounce of damage it did to my fishing knowledge ego. After all the excitement, we proceeded through the locks and wound our way along a very scenic part of the Canal. As we approached the spot where we saw the eagle last September, Gary spotted one flying right over our heads with a fish in it's talons. Shortly after that, we saw another one. Fantastic! Tuesday was Tom and Sheri's 30th anniversary, and we began the celebration with Champagne and escargot, followed by filet mignon and parsley buttered potatoes. Then it was time to head into town to find a laundromat and the Red Wings game on in a sports bar. We were successful on both counts. I found the laundry and the gang found "Keggers" bar. The locals were into darts and tattoos, draft beers were cheap, and the Red Wings won. Life was good in Clyde New York, and Tom and Sheri enjoyed another adventure on the Erie Canal with family, good food, and cold beer.

2009-05-20T13:18:00.000-07:00

15:36 ET 5/20/09

2009-05-20T13:17:00.001-07:00

Monday dawned breezy and cold for our Oneida Lake crossing. Tom and I rigged up every pole on board and expectantly shivered on deck. All the way across prime fishing waters, all we caught was one stinkin bass. Good thing Sheri had Jambalaya on the menu as a back up plan. Baldwinsville was recommended as a good stopping point for the night in our guide book, so we tied up to the park wall and went to check out the town and find a few Geocaches. We poked into a nice looking brewery and inquired about beer specials. No specials, beers are $4.00. Let's keep looking. LOOK! There's a sign for 99 cent drafts! Now we're talking happy hour! The Edgewater Grill had everything going for it. Good people, nice bartender, delicious appetizers, and most importantly GREAT beer for 99 cents. Nowhere in our travels have we encountered a bar that sells specialty pints for 99 cents. We thought Fat Tuesdays in Fort Lauderdale was a good deal with 80 cent six ounce Bud Light drafts, but Edgewater set a whole new standard for an economical happy hour. "We can have a pint of Guinness for 99 cents?" Gary asked incredulously. "Sure" Michelle replied. "WOW!" Gary exclaimed. We hated to leave beer mecca, but Jambalaya was calling back at Tessa. While Tom and Sheri cooked, Gary and I decided to search for one more Geocache. Which happened to be right around the corner from the Edgewater Grill. "Come on, ONE more 99 cent draft!" he pleaded. OK, twist my arm. Tuesday morning, we walked into town to at least see something other than the Edgewater Grill. Baldwinsville is a wonderful town that we we definitely return to visit again.

2009-05-19T12:02:00.000-07:00

13:23 ET 5/19/09

2009-05-19T12:01:00.000-07:00

Sunday morning, we departed Rome at dawn in order to make the seven hour Oneida Lake crossing during good light and good fishing. The band of merry sailors sang and danced our way through the locks, now with an extra added attraction. Sheri pole dances with her boat pole, as though she were entertaining the Lockmasters on stage instead of on deck. They all grin from ear to ear as we enter and depart the lock with The Erie Canal Song blaring and Sheri performing. In the canal we were protected from what was in store for us as we entered Oneida Lake. We were assaulted by cold brutal 20-30 knot winds and breaking waves, right on our nose. "HEY!" I yelled from down below as things began crashing around the cabin. "THIS IS GOING TO BE A LONG SEVEN HOURS!" Captain Gary turned Tessa around and headed back to the Sylvan Beach wall to tie up and wait out the winds. We were greeted by a nice couple who watched us venture out and turn around. Even they were glad we did! This was a perfect opportunity to get secure, relax, and enjoy what turned out to be a great stop. We stopped in at the local breakfast cafe for something warm to drink, then we wandered through town scoping out a Geocache location and a potential pub crawl. At the first welcoming pub, Splash, we made friends with Chuck, who filled us in on some interesting local knowledge. He also invited us to attend an American Legion benefit for his friend and fellow veteran who is very ill with cancer. We took a walk over to Verona Beach where the second Geocache of the day was hidden by a lighthouse, which I found right away under a bench. I'm starting to get the hang of Geocaching. Next we stopped at Brothers Bar for some wings and Red Wings. While Tom and Sheri finished watching the game, Gary and I braved the winds back to Sylvan Beach town and the American Legion benefit. Chuck and his wife Donna welcomed us like old friends, and we had a great time watching Chuck play in his classic rock band "Pegasaurus". While all this activity was going on, Sheri's roast pork loin with cherry wine glaze was simmering away on Tessa, creating wonderful comfort food smells to greet us down below. We went to sleep with full tummies and dreamed of fair skies and light winds for our second attempt to cross Oneida Lake on Monday.